Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class wpdb in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 49

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 35

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Object_Cache in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 400

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 553

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 674

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/query.php on line 15

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/theme.php on line 505
Finnmark 2007 Diary


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The journey’s end


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 12th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

We’re outside Narvik on the West coast of Norway with a stiff wind blowing into our faces off the Atlantic. The dogs are being loaded onto the trailers, the wind sighs into the dwarf birches and the scattered pines, and the sun’s pushing through the clouds over the peaks behind us.

What have we just completed? We’ve reached our goal on the Skjomen fjord which slides into the North Sea and the Atlantic, from the Barents Sea approximately 1000 miles away…and this thanks to the 32 brave, gutsy dogs that pulled the five of us over some of the least hospitable tundra and taiga regions on the planet. We’ve travelled over glaciers, down frozen rivers, across mountain passes over 1000 metres high, in blizzard conditions, in blazing sunshine, invisible to each other at five meters, blasted by winds that devoured our cheeks, noses, ears, and brains. We escaped border patrols who would have impounded our dogs for six months if they’d caught us, we smashed into trees, lost our sleds racing downhill, capsized in water, dislocated limbs, broke ribs, performed involuntary somersaults when the dogs got side-tracked by a reindeer carcass, and lived sometimes painfully, mostly happily through conditions that would be perfectly normal in the life of a reindeer-herding Sami.

Why have we done this? To conduct field interviews with some of the first victims of climate change in order to understand how they, and their herds, are adapting to changing weather conditions – the nomadic reindeer-herding Flyt-Sami…and, at the same time, to collect data on temperature, wind conditions, snow and snowflakes for NASA’s world snowflake project. This is directed by Dr Peter Wasilewski and is part of the NASA History of Winter study. The whole, from our point of view, was to look at how human beings with their animals, living and working in the Arctic – indigenous to the Arctic – are developing new survival routines for dealing with change. The NASA study, thanks to Dr Nancy Maynard, is, in fact, working closely with the Ealat Reindeer project, directed by Svein Mathisen, which is studying reindeer herder vulnerability AND| resourcefulness, in relation to climate change, using the Flyt Sami’s own traditional knowledge, experience, and ground sense as well as scientific research.

It’s not obvious to have such traditional knowledge recognised as relevant, and precious, although, over the last 10,000 years the Sami have been proud of how little trace they’ve left of their passage. “Not Lords of Nature,” they say, “Just part of nature!” Yes, today, technology and mechanisation have brought walkie-talkies, GPS systems, and most of all the snowmobile to herding practices, but generally these tools are employed in a context of sustainability. Why? Because the Sami know – unlike us – how delicate, and crucial the environment is!

What have we learnt? That climate change is a reality of course – temperatures are rising, seasons are shortening for the herders, spring migration starts earlier, autumn migration later, year by year, and visibly over the last ten years. Conditions are increasingly unstable, the herders insist, and this demands from them imagination, flexibility, adaptability, on a daily basis…More important still perhaps than agreeing on the reality of climate change, is that it is neither a question or a possibility of stopping change, but more a question of learning how to live with it…

Conclusion: We can and need to learn from these indigenous Sami people, and others like them, how to live more carefully and more in tune with our environment…that climate change is a challenge, not a disaster, for us, for our children. Planet Earth is all we’ve got!

…and finally that for each of us this adventure was life-enhancing, challenging, and a privilege.

Gratitude is not such a big word, but it’s hard to express what we’ve been given…by all those we met on the journey who gave their time, their thoughts, their trust and hospitiality to us…and also by our back-up team too; by Tommy Larsen, the thoughtful encyclopedia, musher, the logistics man; by Roy Saetre, the ’Yeti’, bush-man, wilderness guide, and cameraman; and by Jan-Ivar Larsen, ’the Bear’, snowmobile driver and mechanic, all-round fixer. All, with their humour, kindness, energy and enthusiasm have helped make this expedition a success. Thank you, and until we meet again…

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

From Sjangeli mountain to the sea at Skjornen Fjord on the Atlantic


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 11th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

This was the hardest weather we’ve experienced on the expedition. After a great evening with Marja’s generous parents at their cabin, and the usual selfless support from Tommy, and Roy, we left from this mountain-top in a blizzard with visibility down to a few metres. Even with GPS we’re having to stop every few metres to check direction. The dogs are astonishing, looking (and finding) the best way up the inclines, through the rocks, round the spurs, over the passes – where I would certainly go wrong. The dogs’ instinct is assured and miraculous. And then quite suddenly we come out of the turmoil, the wind ceases to burn our faces, and the clouds part over our heads.

Tom-Frode halts the line in a small valley. Herds of reindeer stop and stare before galloping into the dawning sunlight on the bluff before us. “It’s beautiful here, “ he reminds me, “and we’re back in Norway!” We celebrate with hot chocolate from the thermoses, bread and cheese, relieved to have found our way. And then we take off once again, drifting silently through the birch and then into the Taiga below with more pines, their green coats, and rusty bark giving variety to the black and white landscape. We pick up speed, and the dogs catch the urgency and that the end is near. Tom-Frode whoops from the lead sled, and I try an old joik to accompany us from the rear, and it’s like riding a helter-skelter down into the forests and the waiting truck with the dog boxes.

The road’s been cleared of snow, temperatures have risen, and it’s too dangerous to take the dogsleds to the sea. Before my judgement improves I grab my rucksack, thermos, the last dregs of cognac, unhitch my dancing leading lady Sprio from the sled, and tie her to my belt. We’ll do the last 12 kilometers or so together (in my sled boots), I tell her, and she seems fine with that. We set off down the long straight road, and I feel like an antique ad for Start-Rite shoes. Spiro and I make good time, and she’s patient with the clumsy human sled she’s pulling home.

We reach the sea with the truck and sled-dogs, Euan, Dess, Tom-Frode and the gang, who’ve caught us up. I take a dip, Euan asks me which was colder – the Barents or the Atlantic. “Somewhere between having my legs amputated and bathing in extra-chilled champagne”, I answer him, “and both as bad”.

We‘ve made it sea to sea, and the cognac dregs are carefully shared. With this brave little dog by my side I look out over the pebbled sand, the grey water, to the horizon – with exhilaration, relief, gratitude – with an odd sense of helplessness.

Leaving Sjangeli on our way down to the Atlantic.

image.jpg

Reaching the sea.

image.jpg

The AtlanticŠ

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Dr Dessislav Sabev on the reindeer herders’ fight for survival


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 10th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Here we have attempted to describe the general conditions under which Sami reindeer-herders tend to work, the difficulties that they face, and some aspects of the future which faces them. Conditions are precarious, not only for reasons of weather or climate change, but also because of government policies, competition with countries producing cheaper reindeer meat, and in-fighting amongst the Sámi themselves.

Last visited areas
In Sweden we noticed very different reindeer-herding practices from those we have seen in both the Kirkenes, Karasjok, and Kautokeino districts. We can summarize as follows:

Kirkeness District and Pasvik Valley: winter pastures in the well-protected forest areas of the Pasvik Valley, summer pastures usually on the Sea islands up in the North. Mostly domesticated reindeer, “tamed” through intensive year-round herding, feeding, given forage by herders during the winter, who move with the herd to the calving and summer areas. Low concentration of herds. ie no great competition. One herd is usually managed by several families in a “reindeer-herding district”.

Kautokeino: winter pastures usually in open or semi-open tundra, close to the Swedish border (where there are conflicts with reindeer herders from the Swedish side regarding over-use of shared pasturelands); summer pastures close to the sea. Almost year-round herding but less intense than in the Kirkeness district. Bigger concentration of herds, and owners. One herd is usually managed by one extended family, and grazing territories are organised in “reindeer-herding districts”.

Sweden: winter pastures in the woods, summer pastures up in the mountains, often on the Norwegian side of the border (conflicts with reindeer herders from Kautokeino regarding overuse of shared pasturelands). Reindeer migrate by themselves to calving areas and summer pastures in March-April, and run free (so “free grazing”) until the calf-marking corral in July. Herds and reindeer-herding territories are lined up on almost parallel grazing areas (some areas of 5 km wide and up to 150 km long) belonging to “Sámi villages” (Sameby).

Investigating the differences in reindeer-herding practices within this region, must be, to some extent, an attempt to explain the differences between peoples on our planet. What we call “culture” is a particular relationship of a human group to its environment. The three different reindeer-herding cultures outlined above are based on different types of environment where people from a similar ethnic background (i.e. the Sami), and involved in a similar economy (i.e. reindeer herding), live and work. Pasvik Valley is an almost ideal place for winter grazing, but is the least comfortable place for summer grazing because of high temperatures and abundance of mosquitoes, factors of disturbance for the reindeer. Reindeer need open and windy places with an abundance of grass during summer. Mountain or sea provide such conditions, so reindeer do a long migration from Pasvik to the islands in the Sea. Such a long migration requires strong human control as the herd has to travel across various territories, and can easily get lost. This environmental structure for the reindeer herding requires a close human-reindeer relationship, as the herder applies strong control to the herd. When the herder feeds his reindeer during the winter, he sets up this strategic close control over the whole herd: feeding reindeer is the best way to “domesticate” them, i.e. to keep them closer to the owner. Such a herd is more easily managed through long migration routes.

In Sweden we experienced a totally different type of environment and consequently noticed different types of reindeer management. Reindeer move from birch forest up to the mountains on much shorter distances and thus can be easily left free to migrate and to graze in Spring and Summer. This allows herders to have a “second job” in the area, related to the tourist business, community life, and the local economy. This was the case of all the reindeer owners that we met in Sweden. But problems come with the political structures, and more specifically with the border difficulties experienced by herders between Sweden and Norway. These borders cut the migration route of the herds that have winter pastures in Sweden and summer pastures in Norway. Such areas has been under dispute between reindeer owners from this part of Sweden and from Kautokeino. Kautokeino is the most reindeer-populated of the four regions we have visited throughout this expedition, and the good pastures to the Swedish border are an attractive winter place for some of the Kautokeino herds.

Kurt Magge feeding his herd (Neiden area).

image.jpg

Per Jun Ante, reindeer herder and manager of his Siedda’s mobile slaughter house. “The meat’s better of course, because the reindeer are not stressed,” he tells us. “We come to them.”

image.jpg

Ellen-Anne Siri with her aunt Karen - two generations of women herders from the Kautokeino area.

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Tom Frode reflects on the journey


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 8th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

I asked Tom Frode, our guide, to write today’s diary, but he said, “it’s too hard, I work for the logistics, organising things as we move along on the journey.” “You Adam, for example, were a pain in the arse at the beginning, testing my capability to solve problems with all the things you wanted: to meet the herds, the herdsmen, the healers, the seers, the old and young generations, to pass by the traditional sites, the holy places, and stay longer often to talk with one or the other people that we met, always pushing me, and we’re travelling only with dogs, so its never easy to make kilometers, too.” “But beside complaining and giving me a guilt complex,” I asked him, “what’s been good, and what’s been bad for you?” “The most stressful,” he said, “was crossing the border at Kilpisjärvi, where I ran down and saw that the whole team would have to drive 200 meters along the main road.” “And what’s been good for you?” I asked. Tom shook his head, “many things: no conflicts in the team, the good feeling that I can’t express for the bunch of friends in Finnmark, and in Sweden who have helped us along our way. Also seeing how the herders have different solutions for their problems, the weather, the predators, and seeing how important is the geography of their districts to their migrations, and the herding, also confirming what I’ve seen as a dog musher that climate change is real, and I don’t get my two weeks in May anymore for ice fishing, travelling with dogs at nights, and sleeping in the day because the snow’s all gone, and the rivers are open. Ah yes, I also feel I’ve got more energy now than when we started the expedition, and I hope it’s not the last one we do.”

Tonight we’re with Marja’s parents who have just cooked us a delicious meal of their own smoked reindeers in a stew with mushrooms and cloudberries picked from the forest by Anna-Christine, Marja’s mother. We’re perched on top of Sjangeli Mountain with a snowstorm raging, and I’m out in it with my fingers freezing with this damn phone. But its always filthy weather on Good Friday, they’ve assured us here. Tonight we sleep in a lavvu, which is like an Indian tepee, before slipping down to the Atlantic in the morning, if the weather permits. There are more stars than I think I have ever seen in my life, and it feels as if we’re on top of the world, and the Northern Light are circling round us.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The last day in the mountains


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 8th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The dogs before leaving on the last day in the mountains. The conditions were the worst we’d experienced during the entire expedition. Madonna, the lazy bitch, and Trouble - what a heart in the hills! Kjelling, the bravest, and Malten my tough silent guy. Spiro, my lead dog, and her son Potte.

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Back from the wild


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 6th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Yesterday we mushed 50 odd kilometres down Johan Turi’s home ground on the great lake Torneträsk to Abisko. We’re approaching civilization again, and now in Abisko the noise of snow-machines and people is disconcerting after so many days in the wild. Each of us, in his or her own way, is experiencing trepidation at the prospect of completing this journey. Someone truly said that it’s all in the travelling, and not in the arrival or reaching an end, and I wonder if that’s what pilgrimage is too.

Last night Marja, our Sami guide for this leg, brought her brother to sing for us. His CD Birrasis has been sitting on my desk in London, and listened to almost daily in the months before the expedition. Joiking (as it’s called) is not quite singing, but it’s music, rhythm, chanting, haunting and full of song, as Lars-Ánte Kuhmunen says “You sing a person, a magic place, your reindeer or the mountains, you don’t sing about such things.” He told me that the Joik of the Sami is enclosed in the palm of your hand, and that you have to shake it out. He also said that the Joik always comes back to the ground, however much it flies, because that’s how the Sami people must live, sending their hopes and prayers with the wind, but always moving for the pastures with the reindeer, from winter to spring, for the calving, for the summer grounds high in the fells, back to the autumn for the corralling, the calf marking, the separating, and into winter again.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Home to Johan Turi


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 4th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Date: April 4th Time: 20.30pm
Air temp: minus 4
Snow temp: minus 5
Lat: 68 degrees, 17, 24 N Long: 19 degrees, 15, 44 E

Today we travelled from beneath Cokcu (the Holy Mountain) to Lahtteluokta, where, at the beginning of the 20th century Johan Turi lived and wrote the first book ever written by a Sami. My grandfather was one of those who helped him get it published, and about one hundred years ago they made a journey together through parts of Sapmi where Turi showed the famous physician, “ real things that should be known by all people”. Here on the great lake of Torneträsk, we found his cabin, thanks to a string of neighbours who helped us locate the site. Turi was and is a hero for the Sami. As Marja, our young guide says, “ He was a great man who opened a view about Sami people, and gave their eyes to the world.” Her uncle, Ola Påve, a wily, witty herder to whom we listened half the night, and again this morning, put it as beautifully but differently; “He was the first to tell the stories properly, so we can be understood, because the Sami are a story-telling people:” Turi was a teller of tales old and new, of the Sami legends, of Sami practises on medicine, reindeer herding lore (still used by modern herders like Ola), of the spirits, and Shamen. He told and drew his stories too, and his drawings are famous now. He was also a hunter, herder, and himself a Shaman, in the tradition which still holds good today, of those who do not speak of their skills but merely use them.

Our day started in a white-out, and we had doubts as to the possibility of travelling at all. At 12.45pm Tom-Frode made his decision and we set off into a swirling maelstrom. After an hour we started our descent into the Taiga (more birch and small pine trees), the wind dropped, and patches of blue sky unfurled above us. We were grateful for the cabin Tom-Frode found us for the night, thanks to friends up for the Easter week, having been promised only a tent in the violent conditions prevailing. We then moved into the hills above Torneträsk on our search. A tipsy herder, Lars Mikel Svuoni (here he is) gave us the final clue, and the team let me run down to the old shack just above what must have been old Johan Turi’s Lavvu. (photo) I peered in through the windows to see a neat old-fashioned kitchen area, with a basket of birch wood waiting for the next fire to be lit. Without this old man, and my grandfather’s admiration for him, our journey today would not have been made…and my eldest son would never have been christened so oddly…so here this diary entry comes – with admiration and love – for an old man, and for Turi Benjamin…

Johan Turi’s cabin where he wrote Turi’s Book of Lapland.

image001.jpg

Lars Mikel Svuoni, who gave us the last clue as to Turi’s whereabouts, and then sang us his Joik on lost and found reindeer.

image002.jpg

A wolf’s footprint, close to our sledges, following the trail of a herd of reindeer.

image003.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Watching over the dogs


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 4th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Temperatures descending as we move back into winter. Our local friend, Marja’s uncle, Ola Påve, said it’s the new weather instability that most concerns the herders. From Rostujauri to Cokcu (the holy mountain) we’ve had a bitter wind and a hard days mushing, the sledge creaking on the dogs’ run, and the snow creaking too beneath the runners, like a draughty door swinging.

It’s so good to see the dogs learning their rhythm for the day. Its been a heavier sledge, so harder to pull and faster on the down slopes, the dogs’ bottoms pushing outwards from the traces because they trust me for their rudder, and I’m watching carefully, after a month in harness, for a limp or stiffness. They’ve eaten voraciously every day, their fat levels are down, and they’re skinny and more fragile. But still all their personality traits are present and showing in behaviour in the way they pull. Spiro like a dancer, Madonna like a lazy cow, Kjelling clumsy and brave, Trouble like a tireless demon, and always ready for a fight, Malten and Potte like thoroughbred racers, their smooth, silky lope shows their racing skills, economy of movement, harbouring of energy while still giving their best. It’s a joy to watch them, and we’ve become good friends. When I cry “Haw” or “Gee”, Spiro, my leading lady, will take them left or right, and with a soft “Ch” from me, they’ll give a little more, as the light fades, though their strength fades too, because they feel our night stop is coming closer. Without them this journey could not have been made. They’ve been fed first, and are bedded down first every night. They get their breakfast first in the morning, and all my clothes and gloves smell of the sausages, frozen meat, and biscuits I’ve cut and mixed up for them day and night, and, on the hardest days, at noon too. Today Trouble has also worn a jacket against the cold. Some weeks ago, he managed to get part of his foreskin ripped off in either a fight or frenzied sex, so to stop his bits freezing, he wears a body-stocking, and a very sheepish expression when I put it on in the mornings. Tonight we’ve heard that the bears are already out of their winter hibernation lairs. Weeks earlier than St. Tibertius Day, April 17th. This is another sign of change, but the bears are another story.

Tonight the moon’s out, the stars are out, there’s a huge, vast, sleepy sky..

The weather experienced today…

image004.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

An uncertain future…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 3rd, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Temperature minus 8º and dropping, wet weather in store although a beautiful day and less wind. Yesterday was a hard day - 55 kms from Lyngen Fjord to Rostujärvi Lake. The weather forecast was bad, and Tom Frode considered returning, but once we’d climbed and sweated into the fields, there was no going back, too much time wasting. The strong vicious north-easterly wind turned the Vidda into a raging sea. The dogs carried on bravely, their speed much reduced, their bodies caked with wind driven snow turning to ice, our faces were not much better.

We got into the lake fishing camp after 9pm having put the dogs out and fed them. At 10pm Olaf Idivuorna came in to see us. Olaf is a Reindeer Herder, who also runs this fishing camp until the spring when he returns to his herd. His winter pastures for the reindeer are in Sweden, and his summer ones in Norway. There’s competition from Norwegian herders so there is trouble and strife, of course. It’s not easy making a living as a herder, you have to love it. Olaf’s wife works in a shop, and he takes this job at the Sámi fishing camp when he can leave the herd to free range. “If you live from herding only, you have 700-800 reindeer minimum,” he says, “and the kids, they help me now and again on their bikes riding herd, particularly in the spring calving time when they have to protect against predators, but I don’t know for the future,” he told me with some sadness.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Norway’’s greatest war hero


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 2nd, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

We’’re continually delighted by the hospitality, openness and sheer friendliness shown to us by people here in the small coastal communities of North Troms. On Palm Sunday, in Furuflaten, we were welcomed by one of Tom-Frode and his wife Liz’’s closest friends Wiktor Sørensen, the Chief Executive of Norut in Tromso. During the course of three hours, conversation ranged from climate change to oceanography to fishing stocks. Then, at one point, some other friends, Bjarne Dalhaug and his wife, called by. Bjarne, now retired as headmaster of a local boarding school, will take up a position as director of a small museum devoted to the memory of Jan Baalsrud. He and his wife were personal friends of the Baalsrud family. Many people with a knowledge of Norway’’s heroic resistance to Nazi occupation during World War II will be familiar with this name – as was Adam, whose father Malcolm Munthe was something of a war hero in these parts himself, and who considered the Norwegians to be the bravest people he had ever met. Yet the name meant nothing to me (Euan) and in case there are others who may be unaware of Jan Baalsrud and who never saw the film ‘Nine Lives’ based on his exploits, or read David Howarth’s book about him, ‘We Die Alone’, it may be useful to give a brief summary of his wartime career.

In March 1943, aged 26, Baalsrud and some other Norwegian commandos packed a fishing vessel with eight tons of explosives and sailed into the Toftefjord. Their aim was to destroy the German air control tower at Badefost and thereby help liberate Norway from Nazi occupation. They were betrayed, however, and their boat was hit by a German ship. Baalsrud and his companions scuttled their boat and swam ashore through Arctic waters. Some of them were shot, two others were taken to Tromso and later tortured to death, and only Jan Baalsrud escaped. For several months he wandered the high tundra of Finnmark and North Troms, managing to avoid German search parties, who had put a high price on his head, all thanks to the bravery of some sixty local families who risked their own lives hiding and helping him survive. Finally, two Sámi brothers, the Baals, both reindeer herders, smuggled him over the Swedish frontier, though not before he had been forced to amputate his big toe because of gangrene. He spent several months in a hospital in Sweden before eventually making his way back to Britain to continue the struggle. Baalsrud received Norway’s highest military honours after the war and became a national hero. He died in Tenerife in 1989. Every year his memory is preserved by the local people here in North Troms who set out in July on a nine-day walk following the route of his evasion. In 2011 certain details about Baalsrud are due to be made public for the first time. Many wonder about the reasons for this secrecy and why there should be anything to hide.

Bjarne Dalhaug also mentioned some other brave Norwegians who performed other heroic deeds working for the resistance. One, for instance, by the name of Ovesen, made no less than forty-nine crossings through the heavily guarded North Sea from Western Norway to the Shetlands in small boats, transporting resistance fighters who subsequently worked for the Allied cause. I wonder, but have no means of checking at present, whether this was not the subject of another book by David Howarth, ‘The Shetland Bus’…

Today we aim for the border with Sweden, with our new Sámi interpreter and guide, Marja. She and her family live and herd a little North of Kiruna, and thanks to her efficiency we have a number of meetings scheduled in the mountains. We said farewell to Ellen-Anne yesterday before she returned to her herds in Kautokeino. A tear or two were shed! The weather reports are severe. There’’s a strong North Easterly blowing and heavy snow falls. Luckily, at least to start with, the wind should be coming mostly from our backs, but we’’re likely to be out of contact range for the next days. This means that when we’re not exhausted the reports will be coming in over satellite phone!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The sacred Sámi stone


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 1st, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The sacred Sami stone, the size of a small cathedral, set in a drifting snow-steeped valley swept round a lake of icy curves, blue as bounty, where the fish are best! This giant stone’s nooks and crannies were filled with small offerings given to the gods - a fly fishing hook, coins, small tools, a set of reindeer antlers, batteries! Tom Frode’s friend had borrowed the antlers as a dare some years before. He’d been hounded by misfortune thereafter until an old Sami woman accosted him one evening in a bar, and told him to return them. He left his friends, and hurried off, returned the antlers in a snow storm, and later found his friends to explain. No-one else had seen the old woman dressed in an out-of-date costume.

The sacred Sámi stone

image.jpg

A fishing hook in the stone

image004.jpg

Landscapes…

image001.jpg

Snowscapes…

image002.jpg

Cloudscapes…

image003.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Healers and seers


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
April 1st, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Latitude: 69 degrees,06 58 N
Longitude: 20 degrees,06 01 E
Temperature: -8
Time: 9am
Date: 30th March 2007

The journey proceeds, meetings continue with these hard-working, joyful spit-in-the-palms-and knuckle-down people who find no contradiction in being semi-nomadic farming workers since ten thousand years ( ie not prone to hasty working decisions) AND deeply imbued with a motivating sense of their their own culture, qualities, and potential. Of course they can also be drunkards, hooligans, and as mediocre as the rest of us, but luck brings luck and we seem to be meeting the young and the best.

They make us laugh and wonder, as they do themselves. It’s good, for example, to meet healers, weathermen, soothsayers, finders, and seers with a strong sense of the comic, solid practicality, and simple humility at the powers that they’ve been given to use - without payment. From all over Finnmark, from Oslo, Stockholm, to places such as Tokyo and Washington their patients call them. We’ve met a couple of these modern community workers, or magicians, recently…or Shamen, or Noiade (in Sami) - a young man and an old woman.

The first we bumped into in a cabin on the mountainside by Dittnujauri close to the Finnish border. A short inoffensive looking fellow of 32 in specs with thinning hair and a slight facial tick. His friend told us that he should have been organising the plumbing at his new house, but that he’d gone skiving into the hills for a bit of fishing.

Nils Ainar Samulsen is a third generation healer,working closely in the context of the Laestedian Christian brethren. He asked us thoughtful questions about our journey, beaming short-sightedly at our answers and enthusiasm, and commenting with generosity and openness to opinions different from his own. He still trains with the army as part of their Fast Reaction Emergency Force. Apparently the bigger guys in his squad thought he offered a butt for some good laughs. They challenged him to a run across the mountains with extra heavy packs. Good-naturedly he accepted, and over the fifty kilometres of the course ran them into the ground and off their feet. He’d spent his life in the hills, working with his sheep, and travelling on foot among the villages, as his father and grandfather had done before him, to help people with his healing, with some plumbing on the side! He works face to face when he can, but otherwise long distance, and is considered a leader even by those who are not of his persuasion or religious convictions.

The second healer we met was an old woman of 76. Small, round, silver-haired, in a Norwegian cardigan with silver buttons, and black skirt shiny with age, she invited us into her cabin on the edge of the majestic Lyngen Fjord. Borkhill Robertsen, of the mild, unlined countenance, is a sea Sami, but comes from that generation that was so abused in the processes of Norwegianisation that she cannot, even today, admit to her origins. Humiliated as a child for being Sami, punished, in the boarding school she was forced to attend, for speaking her native language, she married a Norwegian, and passed on nothing of her culture to her children, except, that is, her strange talents to heal and to see… This was given, she said, as her father gave to her, at the age of 7 or 8, to whichever one of the children had come closest to death. She had been chosen, after nearly dying of meningitis. She, in her turn, had chosen her daughter earlier still, when the latter had nearly died of something like ‘Cot Death’.

Borkhill works with prayer and second sight. Her skills are used all round the world, particularly for arthritis, eczema, bleeding (internal and external), all forms of burns, as well as for general accidents. She was first asked to heal her sister at the age of 8, and thereafter a man with toothache. He frightened her so badly, that she ran out of the house and into the woods to get away. For hours she stayed away praying that his toothache would go away so that she could go home. He’d left, in fact, after a few minutes, her reputation grew fast, and what she’d feared then came to pass. Her work as a healer took over her life.

But one thing she’d deeply regretted, she told us, was that people could not hear her prophesies. She’d predicted a landslide in her neighbourhood, had asked her husband and another friend to tell the nine people, whose houses and lives would be involved, but none had listened and all died. To us this sounded biblical. On another occasion she’d seen aircraft, pouring bombs out of the sky, and seven and a half moons glinting. This before the first Iraqi war. She’d dreamt helplessly of the floods in Bangladesh, of local and international incidents. On climate change she had more success apparently, as people listened when she spoke of the sun burning more warmly. “But the warmth also comes from the earth,” she informed us, and together with the sun’s will grow.”

Why is it that sophisticated societies like ours no longer appear to have space for such people? And paradoxes are surely good for the brain…

Here we’ve met with Sea Sami folk living around the Lyngen Alps, in one of the most spectacularly beautiful parts of Norway. Tommorrow we leave for the last leg of our journey, first back with the dogs into the mountains, and then down into Sweden and across towards Narvik and the Atlantic. There are some difficulties between reindeer herders on either side of the border, because of encroaching and overused herding lands, and we hope to meet some of those involved, as well as local climate experts on the region.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

In the high tundra


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 29th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Thursday, 29th March from Somajauri to Dittnulahku, the longest day we’ve had on this expedition climbing up the two peaks, one of 1020 metres and the next one 1050 metres. Last night we met a Sámi healer, and we hope to meet him for an interview in the next few days. Yesterday we just escaped the Finnish police when we rushed with the dogs to the sacred Sámi stone. The police could have impounded the dogs and us but we managed to cross the border before their three snowmobiles caught us up. Tomorrow we are hoping also to meet with some Finnish Sámi herders. These days in the high tundra, out of touch, out of reach, entirely operating on our own resources have been extraordinarily special.

image005.jpg

Euan (journalist), Tom-Frode (guide), and Ellen-Anne (Sámi interpreter and reindeer-herder) recovering after escaping from the Finnish border patrol.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The snowflake lady


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 29th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Jovial and forthright in her views, Inge Maria Gaup Eira must be one of the world’s foremost authorities on snowflakes. The eponymous half-Inuit heroine of Peter Hoeg’s bestselling thriller ‘Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow’ may have famously solved a murder through her ability to identify different types of snowflakes, for which she claimed there were thirty-two words in the Inuit language; Inge Maria Eira, however, thinks she might make an even better Sami detective, for in four years’ time, when she will have completed her doctorate at Tromso University, she hopes to have mastered (and published) the definitions of as many as 300 different single words which the Sami reindeer-herders have used over the centuries to distinguish the numerous different characteristics and consistencies of snow.

Thus, for example, the Sami word ‘cearga’ describes a hard snow that is not good for reindeer; ‘ceavvi’ is snow that is in the process of warming; ‘cuognes’ is snow that is hard and freezing, etc… ‘With knowledge of these words, people can learn how reindeer-herders were and are thinking,’ Inge Maria says. She is very much dependent in her research on the wisdom and memory of her uncle, Anders Eira, who will be ninety in September and who still tends his own herd of reindeer. To give us a practical illustration of her work,on a bright spring-like morning, the two of them went out onto their land and dug a four-foot hole in the snow down to the grass beneath. Though plentiful and very deep, the soft, powdery quality of that day’s snow was judged to be excellent for reindeer, who would have had little difficulty in delving beneath for lichen or grass with their hooves.

Inge Maria is also helped in her documentation by six other reindeer herders in Western Finnmark who keep records for her of the types and characteristics of new snowfalls, as well as data of climate. ‘My aim,’ she says, ‘is to combine the traditional knowledge that men such as my uncle have with modern meteorological science.’ She, like us on the Finnmark 2007 expedition, is also involved in collecting data for the international snowflake project on behalf of NASA.

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Pasturelands


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 28th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Latitude 69º 17 minutes 48 north
Longtitude 21º 30 minutes 13 seconds east
Temperature -455

A long day in brilliant sunshine moving through Ellen-Anne Siri’s family pasturelands, and we’ve now reached the eastern end of their reindeer summer pastures. We’ve climbed to 800 metres with the dogs, passing Finland’s highest mountain on the way, and have been very lucky to avoid snowstorms, whiteouts, and violent winds because this is a fairly desolate area in winter, but today its been like spring.

We’ve also visited their Seidigeathgi, the sacred Sámi stone, where offerings of money, reindeer antlers and other useful and precious things for the Sámi are still left, and tonight we spend on the mountain huts out here.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Traditional versus scientific knowledge


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 28th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Johan Mathis Turi and Svein Mathiesen are two very different human beings; the first a reindeer herder from the long tradition of Flyt Sámi, and now Secretary General of the World Reindeer Herders Association, and the second, a Norwegian Biologist and presently head of the EALÁT (a Reindeer Herders Vulnerability Network Study), explain themselves, and how it seemed the ‘scientists’ had not been listening. And then – this is somewhat of an over-simplification of course – the Sámi herders said, let’s change practice. If you wish to learn a little of what we know, come to our laboratory, come and freeze with us in winter, walk, and ride, and sled with us when we follow the reindeer from the winter pastures to the sea., when we spend sleepless nights riding round our herds during calving time to protect our beasts against the lynx ,eagle, wolf, wolverine or bear, or when we collect the animals for the autumn marking and slaughter. Then perhaps you will have looked and listened truly, and have learnt something. And then maybe you’ll have something to say which is useful to us…

“It’s a question of confidence-building, firstly at local levels,” says Svein, “and if you constrain reindeer herders’ flexibility and adaptability you will damage, and risk destroying both the economic base on which their livelihood rests precariously, as well as their cultural identity and survival.” Both he and Johan Mathis gave similar examples independently. The first concerned the Norwegian health laws on castration. All reindeer herding countries except Norway permit reindeer castration by the herder, but Norway insists on costly veterinary castration which means that its not done. Who cares, you might say, but as Svein points out, herds with castrated animals are less stressed, calmer, quieter. Johan Mathis Turi adds that if you don’t castrate the bucks they weaken and often die after 3 or 4 seasons due to exhaustion and poor physical condition after rutting. The second example which both men gave was in relation to government intervention. Svein expressed his frustration with government intervention by calling it post-colonial behavior “operating in a time-lag”. Johan Mathis was more confrontational.: “ the Norwegian government wants to control herding and the herders in order to diminish their authority, and independence. Other examples include the essential government control of slaughter houses, and the price of meat…

In many respects, contrary to Dr Dess’ views your diarist feels, State intentions rest on maintaining the Sámi community in a position of dependence, economic difficulty or insecurity (to push the young away from traditional livelihoods) and inferiority, while providing institutions like the Sámi Parliament which have no real power to make changes but provide excellent forums for the Sámi themselves to fight with each other. Divide and Rule in other words…

There is much more to be said on this and related issues. Other occasions will doubtless be found!

The herders:

Johan Mathis Turi

image.jpg

Karin Logje Siri

image.jpg

Per Ailo Logje - the acknowledged expert and reference point

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Meetings in Karasjok and Kautokeino Districts


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 27th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

More than any other region in Norway, these two districts have been renowned as “traditional reindeer-herding” sites.

Climate change: Most of the herders we have met situate the climate shift within the last 10 years, but understandably they tend to be more concerned with weather than climate change. I.e. the event rather than the pattern as it refers directly to their livelihood… Thus they perceive the essential changes as providing for a rainy January, later winters and early springs, with more snow, warmer winter and spring temperatures. This shift has a significant impact, especially on the spring migration to calving grounds and summer pastures that in the traditional Sami calendar has taken place in mid-to-late April. Nowadays herds start migrating as early as March 20. This is because of early snow melting and ice flow: for reindeer need frozen rivers and lakes, and calves need hard snow in order to reach the summer pastures which are usually on the sea coast some 200 km North of the winter areas. Migration usually starts when daily temperatures go over +10 degrees Celsius, and night temperatures over -10 Celsius. Still, most herders confirm that 2006 has been a “normal” or “rather good” year for the herds as there was little ice on the pastures and temperatures were not very low. This seems to be the optimal combination -: mild temperatures with no rain (and consequently no icing). Herder’s problems with global warming do not concern the temperature rise but the nature and dynamics of precipitation in the autumn-winter season.: Most problems seem to start with rain in January followed by cold weather which then guarantees: ice! As one of the herders put it; the snow-covered winter pasture is like a “fridge”. Reindeer can easily “open” the “fridge door” by digging through the snow to the lichen, but they cannot cannot go through ice: a frozen pasture is like a “locked fridge”.

Social drivers of change: Herders’ perception of “change” looks even more at government policies on agriculture and on environment. For example, the dramatic increase of some reindeer predators such as the lynx is attributed to the recent government strategy on wildlife protection. This particularly bothers the reindeer herders as they often perceive themselves as victims of urban-based animal-protection political lobbies. Another issue is the comparatively recent government regulations on slaughterhouses. All herders agree that it is far better to slaughter reindeer “in the corral”, close to pasture, instead of transporting them long distances in trailers to town-based big slaughterhouses. The mobile slaughterhouse appears to be the best option for them, but it is almost impossible to run a small slaughterhouse with economic profit because of excessive health requirements from the government. Actually the health rules on slaughterhouses are the same in Norway as in EU but the general feeling is that the interpretation of these rules is far more restrictive than in Sweden or Finland. For example, reindeer owners in the latter two countries are allowed to castrate male animals in order to protect their shape and weight after the autumn (copulating season) but herders in Norway are not allowed to do so! They are required to ask specialized veterinarian services which are so expensive that actually no one officially does performs animal castration (although we have heard than Ellen-Anne, our Sámi translator’s personal teeth have been used on occasion.. People in the area were accustomed to using small or mobile slaughterhouses… until the government health inspectors appeared 7 years ago.

International politics have also had significant impacts on reindeer-herding in the region. Since 1950s, the Finish-Norwegian border has been fenced against reindeer border crossings.. Previously, herds had moved to well-protected (against cold, wind, and predators) wood areas in Finland for winter grazing. But after the border-fencing, they had no choice but to stay throughout the winter in the Norwegian mostly treeless tundra and highlands areas. The only exception we saw was the Pasvik valley in the Northeast (see the first expedition days) which is a naturally protected woodland area similar to the winter pastures in Finnish Lapland and Karelia.

Cost of living, mass consumption, and technological pressure on lifestyles are other significant drivers of change. 30 years ago, herds were definitely smaller because families had less material needs. As Per Ailo Logje, one of the most respected herders in the Kautokeino area, put it “Even twenty years ago one family could live with a herd of 400 animals. Today even doubling that size won’t provide the same standard of living.”. A small house close to the winter area and good reindeer sleds for transport were quite enough material support for human happiness. Today, such material status would be unacceptable for a reindeer-herding family. Social and economic competition impose the use of powerful energy-consuming snowmobiles and four-wheel drive vehicles. Expensive gasoline, houses for both winter and summer areas (but not of similar quality it’s true), are among the basic requirements for a decent social status. Technology increases the needs, and demands for more cash. This puts pressure on herds as they have to be both bigger in size and more productive. Finally, this pressure is expressed in the pastures themselves and their plant distribution, and thus overgrazing occurs, although not one herder will refer to this. Nevertheless, all herders agree that “life is easier” today and older herders are happy to see their grandchildren developing life and work enhancing opportunities beyond the reindeer herding. Such opportunities, we noted, tend nonetheless to be taken up by the girls more than the boys on whom greater pressures are exerted to follow their fathers into herding immediately.

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

High on the Vidda


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 26th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Latitude 69º, 04 minutes, 32 seconds north Longtitude 22º, 09 minutes, 02 seconds east Elevation 507 metres.

We’ve made our first destination high on the Vidda in the tundra with a stiff wind blowing. A strong north westerly wind blowing and temperatures minus 9. We’ve come from Kautokeino to Saitejauri high in the tundra. Seen herds of reindeer but otherwise its like being in the sahara only white. No trees and a viscious wind. Just been down to get some water with the sledges from the river at the bottom of the valley where we’ll hunker down for the night.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The winter corral


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 26th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Yesterday, we were in the hills outside Kautokeino with Ellen-Anne’s extended family at a winter corral, where the herders, under Per Ailo Logje’s leadership were marking the last calves who’d been missed out at the December round-up.Š We came down from the high Tundra on the snow scooters, past the Norwegian army bunkers and listening posts, and into the Taiga to see a clearing in the forest way at our feet. “This place has been used by the families at least since 200 years,” Per Ailo told me. It was a festive occasion. Young family members had travelled the 10-15 kilometers on skis to participate. Uncles, brothers, cousins, who had nothing to do with the herding were all there to celebrate, and we were honoured to have been allowed to come. “Do you know why it’s hidden in the woods?” Ellen-Anne asked me. I shook my head. “So not everybody knows what we’re up to,” she grinned. The granddads and grandmas were also there, one on crutches even, with their pet (as opposed to working) family dogs, to enjoy the gathering in brilliant sunshine, the excitement and fun. The atmosphere was electric, the young sizing up each other to check on the other’s lassoeing talents, the older already stalking those reindeer they meant to pull down for the traditional ear marking. Each family has a special mark, and each individual in the family has his or her own variation, and the reindeer, having no sensitivity in their outer ears, feel nothing when the cut comes. They were galloping around us now, tongues out ,antlers shaking, and bucking, humping, braying, grunting as they passed us in a flying mist of snow and fur. The sound and proximity of their movement, their broad camel-like hooves crunching through the snow, their breath streaming into sparkling clouds of steam, the sweet, pungent furry smell of the beasts, filled us all with a sense of magic, a brief intense perception of the joyfulness of life…Š

Elizasbeth Ursi Gaup, an academic at the Sámi University College told me that they’d all been brought up since birth to know that “First there was God to think about, and then the reindeer, and then they themselves, the Sámi, some way after!” We stood at the edge of the whirlwind of reindeer to talk. She told me that her field was environmental studies, and that her main focus was to prepare her students to be capable of outdoor life. I thought of our inner cities, and of how little knowledge our children have of the world beyond buildings, and of how little they actually care because that place, that environment, has no reality for them. “Sometimes those who come from the South are so stiff, so uncomfortable to be in the wilderness, to sit on the ground, to stretch out on the earth, that it seems to me they have forgotten which planet they were born on.” I asked her if she believed that understanding our natural environment can help us solve the questions of our own reality. “All I know,” she said, “is that children in cities are divorced from reality, and that they need to learn again, and that being out here, and feeling well, and learning to use their eyes and ears again will make them healthy!”

Ellen-Anne called me back to try to lasso my own calf. “A nice fat one please!” she asked with a hint of mockery. “But you haven¹t managed to lasso even one of your own calves,” I said to protect myself. “Never mind,” she shrugged, so I tried. “And you even managed a fat one!” she cried after my second attempt.

Scenes from the Round-up:

image.jpg

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Kautokeino


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 24th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

11.45pm Friday March 23rd
Air temperature: minus 4 degrees
Snow temperature: minus 4.5 degrees
Lat: 68 degrees,56,51 N Long: 23 degrees,05,21 E

After our arrival in Kautokeino last night, perhaps the most important centre for reindeer herders, where the Sámi Institute for Indigenous Peoples, the Reindeer Husbandry Centre, and the Sámi University College are situated. We first settled the dogs in for the next three days. Tommy, Tom Frode’’s young assistant, is preparing a team for the Norwegian Dog-Mushing Championship next week, and will borrow some of our best dogs for the three day event. They get double rations to build up their fat content , and will sleep in straw to conserve energy and warmth. We sleep in cabins, three to each, and use the stop to wash properly, to wash and dry underclothes, to catch up on mail and to prepare meetings, to eat regular warm food, and to sleep longer!

Today has been busy with interviews and get-togethers. It’s odd but not strange to find that it needs time to create confidence, so we’re permanently at variance with the film crew who want interviewees to tell you everything in five minutes We met with Ellen-Anne’’s grandmother, great aunt, and uncle, respectively Bent-Anne, Karin, and Per Ailo who is a herder, writer, and philosopher on reindeer husbandry. Thereafter we met, Johan Mathis Turi, Secretary-General of the World Reindeer Herders Association, and our ally and supporter on this expedition, as well as Svein Mathiesen, head of the Ealat Reindeer project. They both have powerful convictions and much to say, not always comfortable to Nordic and Western ears, and also about confidence building!

We’’ll attempt to précis some of their conclusions in tomorrow’s diary, when we return from taking snowmobiles into the Tundra to look at Ellen-Anne’’s father’s herds. We will be using snow mobiles because, and this is a small contemporary irony, they frighten the reindeer less than dogs…

image001.jpg

Johan Aslak Eira, a young and gifted herder from the Karasjok region, in traditional gear on a contemporary vehicle, waiting to take us out to his herds (and, hells bells, can this machine move… until every bone in your body rattles)


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

An old man’s memories…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 23rd, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Lahpoluoppal, on the the last leg to Kautokeino: Ule Henrik Gaino looks after the state fjæl huts where we stayed the night. He’’s a mere 67 years old but he’s lived and seen a lot. A wiry tentative body, strong ageless face, with the smile of a wise child about him, and gentle hands which moved and turned with his words. His father earned his living as a hunter, particularly of Ptarmigan his record year brought in over 3,000 birds– and he trained his son to be of the Vidda, not independent of it, and to watch and experience as a tracker and hunter.

Brought up in a Sámi family with no Norwegian Ule Henrik was forced to go to a boarding school at the age of 7 in Kautokeino. Here the terms lasted three months and the holidays a few days. He was not allowed to speak his own language, understood not a word of the language he was required to communicate in, but found himself chastised enough to acquire it speedily. After school, and the war years, he followed in his father’s footsteps. He snared ptarmigan for a living, as well as building and repairing fences for the Flyt (Nomadic) Same’s reindeer. His knowledge of the wild, and of the predators that lived in the Vidda brought him a reputation, and government work as a wilderness ranger. He was the man who registered all the dangerous animals living in the area, controlled their population according to government specifications, and was able to communicate with his fellow Same on the proximity of predators to their flocks.

Checking out the bear lairs in Spring was a heart-in-the-mouth exercise he told us. There was always the possibility that a female would still be there with her large cub, ‘so you had to prepare to run like hell.’ He’d also spend time canoeing on the rivers, checking on the fish stocks. And now, although he’’s retired officially, he’’s far too useful to be left in peace.

In his youth, before the road was built through his village, Ule Henrik remembers running home fast from playing in the forest because a pack of wolves had come too close. He also remembered how the Flyt Same would come to pick the lichen for winter feeding because his home area was the richest within the Kautokeino Commune for this wonderful foodstuff. Returning home at night, even with no moon (and after a few drinks) was easy because once close to the house, Ule Henrik says he would bounced through the springy lichen. Then they started using iron rakes to clear the lichen, which scraped the rocks bare so there was nothing left to grow for the next year.’ Even then, the lakes were frozen in October and the first snow fell on frozen ground. The reindeer could come into the winter pastures easily.

The road built in 1972 brought great change. More people looking for the lichen with their iron tools, and with them the warmer autumns, the later winters, the earlier springs which turned the herding upside down. ’Ule Henrik seems to have few if any prejudices, except concerning waste. He mentioned how symptomatic it was to see tourists making great gready fires in the wild, which you had to sit so far away from that you don’t get heat, while the Red Indians (as he called them) and the Same, make small fires which you sit close to and they keep you warm! His life at the heart of nature has given him joy, which seems to balance nicely with his financially demanding wife who insisted he demand a fee for talking with us, that we remove all dog shit from the snow before departing (which we habitually do without being asked), and that we pay extra for squeezing more people into the two cabins than booked. His view was that if we cleared the most visible excrement it would be enough, as her eyesight wasn’’t what it used to be… and as for the fee… he shrugged, so the film crew produced a small emolluement for their interview - worth every penny!

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Notes from the sledge


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 21st, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

This report comes to you from the sledge as we mush towards Kautokeino aiming for our next overnight stop at Láhpoluoppal. This is our second day now in the wild as we mush from Karasjok towards Kautokeino. We’ve had two good days of travel - putting up the tents, suffering over a fire of birchwood, and climbing into our sleeping bags as early as 9.00pm to give us the chance of a good night’s rest, and to also save electricity. Darkness falls at around 6.15/6.30pm but we get good light in the morning from around 5.30/5.45pm.

We’ve had interesting meetings with herders in the Karasjok area who gave us a variety of views which were instructive, and showed us the flexibility and adaptability they have in their approach to their work, especially the variety of opinions there are as to how one should manage reindeer. They all, without exception, talk of changing seasons coming earlier. We will be meeting more herders in Kautokeino.

We’ve been living on NATO army rations these days out in the field which are an awful lot better than the adventure packs one tends to get, but its been somewhat like muesli soup for breakfast, vegetable soup for lunch, and fish soup for dinner, but healthy decent stuff. We are so tired, and so hungry, we’ll eat anything. Lying out the dogs on their lines, melting the snow for their food because its important they get enough liquid and don’t get dehydrated, and then put up our tents, and if we’ve got the energy make up a fire, sit round and have the dregs of the whisky we brought with us before going to bed with most of our clothes still on. As far as washing goes, in the morning we’ve just about managed to wash our teeth, and stagger towards the privacy of a nearby tree to answer nature’s call.

I think that’s all for now. We’ll soon give you a full update on our meetings with the herders. The generosity of the people here is remarkable, and they are willing to talk once they realise we are serious about understanding them. These extremely sophisticated, perhaps the most culturally vital people in the arctic, have economic advantages, and are probably the richest indigenous people in the arctic, but the fact remains their generosity to our questions, their interest in our efforts to speak to a wider public on their behalf, and their warmth and hospitability, has been deeply heart warming to us all.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The Eira family


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 21st, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The Eira reindeer herding family from Karasjok who we had the pleasure of meeting.

49.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Stats for March 20th


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 20th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Lat: 69,24,08 N Long: 24,39,03 E.
Time of reading 7am, March 20.
Snow temperature: minus 4 degrees.
Air temperature: minus 5 degrees.
Wind: North North East


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

More Northern Lights


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 20th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Passing thoughts on Sámi women


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 19th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

It seems to me (Euan) that it is the Sámi women in Finnmark who tend to be more cultivated and are often better educated than their spouses - at least those in the middle-aged range. This would seem to be the case among the Sámi families we have encountered along our route, into whose homes we have been invited and whose hospitality we have enjoyed. Dr Dess tells me that this is certainly the case among Sámis on the Kola Peninsula.

The man sees his responsibility as being primarily towards his herd, his reindeer being his wealth and status (indeed it is considered very discourteous to ask a herder how many head of reindeer he owns; it would be like asking a banker what his salary is!). He is happy to take up the rigorous demands of a job that has been handed down by generations of forebears, while relinquishing the education of his children, freedom to consider working alternatives, and cultural considerations to his wife. An example of this would be Laila Smuk, whom we first met in Kirkenes, and later in her and herder-husband Ragnar’s home in Varangerbotn. Originally from Lillehammer, she is presently the headmistress of the local school, and as a young woman had always felt the lure of the North and took her first teaching job in Finnmark. The mother of two children, she spoke warmly and wisely about them and the children she teaches (whom she was about to take to the Sámi Museum that morning) and feels they are very fortunate to be growing up in communities where they are free of the pressures experienced in most of the rest of Europe: principally the privilege of growing up in an environment that is so far unpolluted, and in which they are taught to live and to feel at home.

I spoke to Laila for half an hour or so while Adam and Dr Dess were feeding reindeer questions to Ragnar, her husband, and felt an immediate affinity with her and with her clear, positive and well informed vision of how life should be lived in an isolated part of the world. May all her dreams for her children be fulfilled!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The white reindeer


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 19th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Ragnar’s calf


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 18th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

First snow-fall reading for NASA project…
Lat: 69.24,08 N. Long: 24,39,03 E.
Time of reading: March 18th, 2007, 08.50am. Snow temperature minus 3.5. Air temperature minus 2 degrees.
Snowfall with South East wind.

We continue with NASA Thermacron project taking snow temperature readings every 60 minutes. These give graphics and historigrams for snow temperature variations every 60 minutes. Interpretation of this data will permit NASA to create models for climate change.

Notes from our interview in Varangebotn:
Ragnar owns a part of a significant family reindeer herd. His 25-year-old nephew Jan-Andreas (who looks like a sixteen year old) is also a full-time herder, a way of life that he visibly enjoys. Everyday one of them (and often both) takes a combined car/snowmobile ride to the winter area where his animals graze. The pasture terrain being rather alpine, they have to know the ice-free areas in order to find their reindeer flocks. The purpose of these time-and-energy-consuming visits is to watch out for predators (wolverine, lynx, and eagles) and to check for injured reindeer. During our visit to the winter range this turned out to be the case.

Ragnar had spotted an injured calf during his visit the day before, and had came back fully equipped and, importantly, supported by his young nephew. It took them around 25 minutes to find the calf. The presence of crows is a good indicator for the presence of either injured animals or predators and those black messengers of doom were preparing for a banquet! Jan Andreas rode quickly to the calf, made a tight tour round the beast and caught it with his own hands. He took it on his snowmobile to a flat area for examination. The calf had probably fallen on ice (according to Ragnar) or on rocks (according to my own observation). This kind of injury can happen, as this terrain is rugged, steep and rocky. Otherwise the calf was in good shape, weighting no less than 30kg (born in May, the calves are about 10-month old). It will stay in the fenced garden by the family house, and will be fed by his owner, until Spring migration to the calving grounds and summer pastures.

When we returned to the house, we saw two other calves in the garden. One of them was injured, the other Jan-Andrea’s sister had taken the previous autumn from their uncle’s herd. Jan-Andrea fed them not with hay as I’’d been expecting, but with real delicious lichens, and the best of them (caldonia stellaris by its latin name). Of course he also gives hay but this was the very first time we saw a herder giving lichens to a calf from the hand. The rest of the herd are not fed until just before slaughter. Ragnar and Jan-Andreas do in fact have a picturesque home-made slaughter machine installed in the garden for domestic purposes. As most of the herders in this region, they do not slaughter their reindeer by themselves but sell on to the famous slaughterhouse in Karasjok.

This family is a good example of the importance of modern technology in a traditional economy. First in the list of all reindeer-herding mod cons, the snowmobile is a crucial element with multiple highly important uses. It is the herder’s mean of transport to the herd, keeping the herds together (there are no fences in this family winter range), protecting against predators, acting as outrider for corralling, and finally, reaching individual animals in difficulty as in our case. Good binnacles are another essential prerequisite to find missing reindeer or a reindeer section of a herd in the rugged alpine terrain. Finally, the mobile phone is crucial not only for communication between herders in the tundra but also for communication between herders and government.

As we have mentioned in previous field-notes, the government may compensate some reindeer losses due to predators, if really convincing proof is offered with strong evidence of predator’s damage on herd. Successful compensation claims by all accounts and as published in local newspapers remain lamentably few. But Jan-Andrea’s’ mobile phone is packed with pictures of reindeer attacked by predators. Some of them are so impressive that I believe they may even convince government officers.

Håkan Henrikson, a local government wildlife ranger (Utmarksoppsyn) and Sami, whom we met by chance when he offered a lift to an injured member of the expedition team, admitted that his job was difficult. He suggested that mixed messages were being delivered from both sides, from the government who wavered between strong pseudo environmentalist pressure, a desire not to spend more money than necessary on reparation, and a genuine wish in certain spheres to control predation more effectively. On the Herders’ side there were certainly exaggerations, perhaps largely due to repeated failures to get appropriate help.

image001.jpg

A wounded calf brought home for treatment


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Recapitulation on the Tana River


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 17th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

To recapitulate a bit. If you can find a map of the top of Scandinavia, from the Russian- Norwegian coastline border (East), to Narvik and the Lofoten (West), it will be easier.

After an exploratory day in Pasvik valley running along the Russian border, we started from Grenze Jacobselv , moving round past Kirkenes to Neiden on the border, and then a huge day (94.5 kilometers) travelling past Sopnes into the Tundra and through to Varangarbotn on the Varangerfjorden. This is an ancient Sea Sami centre, and they have a small, and magical museum of international quality on the Sea Sami. Here we met a number of herders, before turning West, and a long day’s mushing towards a small community called Sirma. The dogs are indefatigable, and it’s only after a couple of hours that you discover that together you’ve acquired a rhythm and an average speed that they seem capable of maintaining for ever. They have hearts like houses! From Sirma we pushed on another 70 plus kilometers with the dogs North of Utsjok to the outskirts of a hamlet on the Tana called Leavvajohka, and then today to the Norwegian side of Karigasniemi, where we’ve found a cabin for the night. We’ve now been travelling for three days along the Tana river, sliding beneath the Tana Sami bridge, a place a profound significance to the Sami who have always revered this river for its riches in fish, for its natural splendour, and as a place of spiritual significance remembered especially in their haunting sung music ( Yoiking).

Tomorrow we’ll be pushing hard again in order to pass Karasok to Jergol which we’ll make our base for a couple of days to meet a number of herders, and to go up into the Tundra/Taiga to see their herds, and most importantly, to be able to spend time with these people in a context that doesn’t seem like an artificial interview. For we all talk differently when we’re talking about what we know and love - with the object of our affections and knowledge close by - and the Sami are no exception. This to the extent that they’re justifiably suspicious of our rational, scientific, linear ways of getting or nicking ‘facts’ or ‘information’, because their wisdom and knowledge isn’t always open to words…

Then I started thinking again about why we’re making this journey across the top of Scandinavia. For us all oddly enough - for Dr Dess the social anthropologist, for Euan Cameron, the writer and publisher, for David Sington the film-maker, and Ellen-Anne Siri our young and beautiful reindeer-herder too, and for your diarist today, this journey is about facing an urgency that we all feel, concerning the future… The urgency is to do with a search for quality I suppose, and simplicity, and with the uneasy feeling that our debts are being called in. A great and awesome debt to the breathing space, the environment, that gave us existence.or simply a place to be, that we’ve always taken for granted. We need to understand more, and to do so we need to ask the help of those who live in the wild and hard and unforgiving and beautiful places of this world..like the Sami!

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

It’s a dog’s life…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 17th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Mathis, who doesn’t wear the trousers.

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Spiro.

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Simple things


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 16th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

I spent the day with the back-up team to see their work, spirit, sense of fun, and check that all was well with them. I’m glad I did, and we exchanged many jokes in poor taste with much pleasure. Roy is a photographer, wilderness man, who tells me he’s only frightened in cities, of accidents, death under a bus, of noisy thieves, but never in the wild. Jan Ivar is a jack-of -all-trades, mechanic, dog musher, snow mobile king. Tom Frode had got us up at 6am because the film people wanted an hour shooting pictures of the departure onto the river. Everyone slowly froze, but the mood improved with the day.

The mushers were moving up the Tana river towards Karasok, with 65 kilometers to do, and the prospect of a cabin with non electric sauna waiting. Karasok is the administrative centre of Sapmi, near where we will stop to meet reindeer herders. The temperatures were round minus 5, but the wind factor significantly increased the cold. Dull grey skies gave way to brilliant blue, and the mushers watched the snow swept off the distant hills like chalk dust on a picture. David Sington, the film-maker took my sled, and dogs for the day - Spiro, little lead bitch with a man’s name, and a mind of her own (when Mathis, her running mate, goes out of line she humps him). Then comes Madonna with one blue eye who gives the impression of running fast but her line is rarely taut, coupled with Fang, a skinny wolf-looking creature who’s always on the verge of biting someone, and then the team’s engine just in front of the sled being Frodo, Fang’s half-brother, a black and white cross with floppy ears, and a mad streak ( he just knows he can pull the sled by himself even when I’ve got my foot on the brake), and Kjelling pronouncing Chelling, a big black softy with a heart of gold, and guts to match - nothing stops him once asked to give.

This evening we get to wash ourselves, and our knickers at least in my case, as well as a purifying sauna after a bitter ragged night spent in the Tundra with a filthy wind howling through our tents until the snow gave way to slush and rain round 5am.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Feeding the herds


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 14th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image002.jpg

image001.jpg

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

With the herds…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 14th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The Vidda: We’ have now spent two days out on the Vidda, in the field with the reindeer herders. Still on the winter pastures, the reindeer are now preparing to move in the beginning of April to the spring calving grounds where they calves will be born in the end of May. For the moment, though, they’re still spread widely over the fjälls, running in small herds, and keeping alive on a bare subsistence diet unless helped out with winter forage by their owners. It’s true that the reindeers’ feeding habits change, as does their metabolism, reducing their appetites in winter when they will have to live off their own fat, gained through summer and autumn feeding in the fjälls or close to the sea, or even on the islands to which they swim.

The Herders: Knut Magge and Jon Arne Nessan have much in common as Sami reindeer herders, working harder than you or I would believe possible in harsh conditions at all times of the year, and with the same problems of increasing predation from wild animals, as well as from the two-legged variety invading their traditional territories for energy, tourist, and other economic interests which reduce reindeer pastures, harass the herds, disrupt their livelihood. These two men are also both proud to be called Flyt Sámi or Nomadic (i.e. reindeer-herding) Sámi, carrying on the traditions of their elders and ancestors stretching back for 10,000 years. They both consider that Sámi culture rests entirely in their hands, for without the reindeer, and the seasonal migrations, the yoiking (song-singing) in the wild, the Duodji (handicraft industry based on the reindeer’s parts!) what is left? The Sea Sámi have nearly disappeared as the Russian fleets take over the fishing, and those left behind are old. As for the Fastboende Sámi (Settled Sami) who live like the Norwegians in houses and villages - what can they give to Sapmi ( the area in the four Nordic countries where Sámi people are to be found)…? Thus tends to be the thinking, –arrogant you might say, of the Flyt (nomadic) or Reindeer Herding Sámi people.

Differences: But these two remarkable men also differ in crucial respects. The first and most obvious difference regards herd feeding. Knut Magge provides winter fodder for his herds, thereby taming them to a remarkable degree (which is why we can get so close to the animals, as you’ll see from the pictures). He does this, whatever the weather or natural food supply, in order to be able to provide for the herds in harder times… with climate change for example. Jon Arne Nessan consider such an attitude is likely to reduce the animals’ capacity to adapt. Besides some supplements given out at the autumn/winter corral when the reindeer are marked, and selected for slaughter, there is no feeding with Jon Arne’s herds. They also differ in their attitude to climate change, where Knut speaks of seeing, experiencing rapid change not comparable to anything he’’s known or read about. He told us that over the last five years he’s had to start migration to the island calving grounds a week earlier each year for example. This is due to wet snow, too much rain, and muddy conditions rendering it difficult to move. Jon Arne, on the other hand, while he has been keeping records of temperature, snow condition, rainfall, wind direction and force since 1987, is more circumspect. He reminded us of his father-in-law’s insistence that during the 1930s conditions had been very similar to now, with warm winters, less snow cover, and lots of rain. He said,” it’s day to day, and maybe this change starts like in the 1930s but is growing more and more. Everything changes, everything is a risk, and the landscape decides how you work and live with the reindeer in the end!”

The Reindeer: We stopped half a dozen times with Knut’s herds to feed them the hay and food supplements he provides off his sledge and snow mobile. The herds in each case numbered between 60 and 200 animals. Although timid, and skittish at the first hasty movement from us strangers, they drew closer and closer to the sledges to feed. A young white yearling circled warily before returning again and again to eat. Its huge soft eyes, glistening luxurious pelt, and apparent sympathy with us was eerie and a delight. I saw at once why the white reindeer are considered to have magical powers, and managed to stroke its back as it passed. The beasts churned round us, a buck sometimes shunting its neighbours out of the way with a vivid twist of his antlers… So from the Tundra, or the Vidda as the Sámi call it themselves, we leave you today… with the hope that this sketch on the reality of Sámi life in harsh, daunting, extraordinary conditions can touch something in each of you… of us… and the photos will tell you more!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Natural Wonders…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

For the past 24 hours we have been privileged to see some of the most exciting and impressive natural visual wonders our planet can offer. Last night we were granted the rare blessing of a glimpse of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) for the second night in a row. Hard to convey the sheer mystery and beauty of these eerie wraith-like spirits that dance and weave like unearthly searchlights or angry spirits through the Polar sky in winter, constantly moving and changing shape; usually the light is green, though sometimes you can see vermillion or purple. The experience is humbling and awesome. Today we set off at 8.00am with our dog teams, Tom Frode, our brilliant guide, Adam, Dr Dess, Euan and Ellin, our Sami interpreter and herself a reindeer owner; five teams of six dogs (mine - Euan’s - are called Freue, Heidi, Chiara, Emil, Dusty and Tina) - and we travelled 93 km west and then south on our first truly sunny day. The landscape was breathtaking, the snow sparkling and crystalline in the morning light, the heavens resplendent in a pale azure sky. Over the mostly flat tundra we dashed and swerved, and in my case losing control on several occasions due to the changed fast and slippery surface of the snow. We saw traces of arctic fox, wolverine and many birds including a ptarmigan which Adam saw take off. Once we crossed a larger, 12-dog team coming in the opposite direction and moving at great speed; they were taking part in one of the great sporting events in these parts, the annual Finnmark dog-sledding race, and towards the end of our trek we caught sight of a lake that was a pale shade of almond-green. We also crossed a 3-4 km expanse of sea-ice, which resembled some weird natural sculpture park. Weary and bruised, we arrived in Varengbotn at about 5.30pm and were relieved to discover that we have a room for the night, with sheets! After supper in a converted church hall, we had the great news that the Royal Geographical Society have formally approved our expedition, permitted us use of their logo, and have entered us on their expedition catalogue. We shall sleep tonight!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Herding in a time of change


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

While in Langfjorden, we met Inge, a member of a reindeer-herding family who, together with four other families, owns a herd of 2,500 reindeer (winter size). The herd is currently in its winter range, the Örve Pasvik valley close to the Finish border, some 80km southwest from Langfjorden. This border has been fenced against reindeer cross-border migrations since 1955. There are also some large fenced areas on the other side along the Russian border. Reindeer are under structural pressure just as humans are: their movements, migration, and strategies for survival are impacted upon by economic, social, and environmental change, as well as by national policies. Yet, what bothers a reindeer does not necessarily bother a reindeer-herder: fences strengthen human control over the herd and help to avoid eventual problems as the one we witnessed yesterday when a whole border-guard operation was set off by a few reindeer that had crossed the Russian border.. Reindeer-herding families in this area also use fences to close the winter pastures after the herd has left for summer migration up in the Barents coast in the North.

No fence can stop air pollution though, and this whole area has suffered from the heavy smog that has been floating for decades over the neighbouring town of Nickel on the Kola Peninsula. This industrial pollution reached its peak in the middle-to-late 80s, and has since decreased to the point where it is no longer perceived as a major problem by the reindeer herders we met. In fact, this contented family did not express any significant worries. Even so, they have had to develop certain strategies to assist the reindeer in adapting to environmental change.

Winter forage feeding: This interesting and somewhat controversial strategy has not been adopted everywhere in the reindeer-herding world. But in this family’s opinion, giving additional grass-food in winter is the best way to prepare the animals for bad seasons when plant resources might be scarce or not accessible because of icy tundra. A rainfall in early winter is enough to “lock” lichens (reindeer’s natural winter food) under an icy blanket, leaving the herd without food. The winter 2006/7 encountered this problem and it is likely to become more common as climate change continues to develop. Thus Inge argues that all herders in the future won’t have any choice but to feed their reindeer with winter forage. If the animals do not adapt to this feed, the herders will struggle. In this respect, Inge’s reindeer are adapting well to climate change and, interestingly enough, they are larger than other reindeer in the region.
No vaccination campaigns: While Inge domesticates his reindeer with additional winter food, he refuses to treat them against insects or possible infection. He argues that reindeer have to develop immunity and/or resilience to both insects and disease, and so will adapt more easily to possible effects of global warming.

Herd sizes: Unlike the well-known strategies towards expanding herd sizes and reindeer production that have been once applied (especially on the neighbouring Kola Peninsula and the Soviet North), the reindeer-herding owners in the area have set rules on upper-limit herd size (2,500) and one-family animals in a herd (500). As herd size is mostly controlled through slaughter, the latter acquires significance not only for the community’s economy but also for the community’s social relations. That is why at the time of the slaughter corral in late November ­ early December, the families also do the calf marking, which is a far from simple exercise: each calf gets the mark of the herd, the mark of the family, and the mark of the herder that owns it! Marking a calf is a social statement about taking ownership, responsibility, accepting rules, and developing social relations.

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Rangna Isaaks


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

We met Rangna Isaaks, a Sea Sámi lady of 83. She’s got 4 children, 13 grandchildren, and so far only 17 greatgrandchildren, and she wants to die with her boots on. “Know what I mean?” she asked us. “No Old Age Pensioner’s home, no Alzheimers, no armchair in front of the TV wearing nappies and stinking of piss.” She’s half blind but is willing to sell us the socks she’s just finished making, but only after she’s mangled them through the washing machine so they feel like felt, for our reindeer boots. Six when her mother died, ten when her father departed, she started work at 12 years old, for a railway worker’s family. When there was no food on the table she took the children, pushed the boat out, and fished until they caught their dinner. “Never had reindeer”. She and her husband survived by fishing but “I’m still a true Sámi”, she said grinning through her wrinkles at Ellen-Anne our young translator (who does have reindeer).

The Germans set fire to her home town of Kirkenes during the 2nd World War, as they retreated before the Russians, “but I couldn’t go down to the bomb shelter so we left on foot for the mountains!” She and her husband lived and survived by fishing, and she fought her evil half-sister (who’d denied her the education she been promised) and the rest of Norwegian society who looked down on her indigenous background. Her children were shy to be proud of being Sámi, as she put it for us, but the grandchildren KNEW she was right. “And I’ve always been ahead of my time,” she told Tom Frode. “Look at the bags I made 15 years ago for the sledges! The most modern design that you’ve only just reinvented yourselves.” Tom nods his head. “She’s right!” he grins. “I should have been a boy,” she sighs, “but there were a few bits missing. God had none in the store that day, but he said to me, Rangna, you can be anything you want. And do you know fellows, I was. And still am! Come to my 100th birthday party if you’re still alive. It’s on the Norwegian National Holiday!” She showed us her baskets and quilts, and we went back at dawn the next day for our socks, and yes, they’re clearly the best.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Kurt Magge, herder


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Herding: We met Kurt Magge, a square laughing man with Turkic features, whose openness, honesty, and enthusiasm to communicate his thoughts on reindeer husbandry in a changing world, was of enormous value to the team. The next morning he was generous enough to invite us out to his herds where we spent an extraordinary day. But that’s for tomorrow, all being well! Kurt was born in the 1950s, and started work at 14 with his family. At 19 he’d already taken over the herds after his father died, and now works with a brother, his uncle, and a cousin. These four respective families own the only herd in the whole area around Neiden! They have government concessions over the land they use. This kind of extended-family ownership is typical for reindeer husbandry in the region.

Kurt is presently teaching his silent, competent and beautiful 21-year-old son to herd and eventually to take over. In total, the four families represent 15 individual owners, which is why there are 15 different ear marks within the herd’s animals. As there are no other herds in the neighbourhood, the marks we saw are relatively simple compared to the ones in regions with a greater density of herds. In the first week of May the herd moves to an island some 50km North from the winter range. Females give birth there, the calf-marking corral is then operated in July, and the herd swims back to the summer pastures on the mainland.

Predators: In regards to this herd, predators are the biggest issue, and this not only during the calving. Fox and eagles are the main predators, with wolves coming in from Russia and Finland who sometimes are responsible for dramatic losses, such as the one that recently killed 15-20 reindeer in two months. This is an especially sensitive issue with the government. In theory, the government compensates losses caused by predators but in practice so few claims have been accepted that an owner rarely receives more than one-tenth of his claimed losses. While photos of mercilessly destroyed animals are presented as evidence, with spore and tracks shown of the predators, convincing government bureaucrats that a reindeer has been killed by such predators is rarely effective. By presenting evidences of predator’s activity, herders look not only for financial compensations but also for a right to shoot the predator. Here they find themselves opposed by the wildlife protection lobbies who don’t know what they’re talking about necessarily, and who confuse traditional predators with much more recently introduced beasts of prey (lynx, eagle for eg which possibly shouldn’t even be there) and muddled (consequently paralysed) government policy.

Wolves, wolverine, fox and bear have grown used to modern inventions like the snowmobile, so are no longer afraid of them (they too have become part of the “natural” environment). Hence the predators are part of a changing climate, i.e. they were born and grow up in a technological environment!

Climate Change: Regarding Kurt’s understanding and concerns for climate change, he shares with Inger the belief that feeding the animals with additional winter forage is the best strategy towards dealing with the more obvious effects of climate change. i.e by training the animals to greater domesticity they become more easily influenced by human views on adaptability, and can be moved, collected, regulated, with greater facility. Kurt has already noticed that over the last five years the spring and early summer migrations have had steadily to be advanced, to account for the changing weather patterns. He has also noted that in this year (2006/7) the late autumn, created considerable hardship both for his herds, and for many herders throughout Finnmark. In Swedish Sapmi, they talk of this being the worst winter since 1936, with many reindeer starving. This, in a way, proves his point to have begun - a long time ago - to feed his reindeer with hay in winter because of poorer winter forage due to later autumns, winter rain over snow, followed by ice which prevents the reindeer from getting through to the lichens and nourishment with their hooves.

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Meeting the local herders


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 11th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Kirkenes to Neiden… 45 kilometers over mountainous terrain, hilly, tough going, and exhausting. A magical landscape with the sun surreptitiously slipping over the hills –- pale, ghostly, and heart-breakingly beautiful as we swept alone into and out of the deep silences. A couple of great herds of reindeer in the distance, and meetings arranged with two of the distinguished local herders for the evening: Kurt Magge who’ has been a reindeer herder since the age of fourteen and has watched the seasons change with climate change; and Kåre Sivertsen, another herder full of traditional knowledge. Both herders are Sámi, and with Ellen-Anne Siri, our Sámi translator with us, we should be accepted as friends. We’’ll be going out to the herds in their winter pastures for the first time and hope to bring you back some good pictures of life in the early spring with the reindeer. The diary will appear tomorrow as we catch up with ourselves. The photos in this post present the landscape as we slip into nightfall - the Northern Lights are rising outside as I write…

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Coast to coast…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 10th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

With the dogs to the Barents Sea (Grenze Jakobselv), our most Northerly and Easterly point. This is where we really start the expedition, at least in our minds, aiming to reach the Atlantic in a month to five weeks time. Its snowing which means the weather is quite mild (usually between plus and minus three degrees) but we don’t have time to start data collection on snowflakes, and if the truth be told the snow is icy and looks terrible under a magnifying glass ( ie not the beautiful crystal patterns we’re supposed to find). We pass a herd of frightened reindeer galloping across the lake towards the Russian border and I ask Dr Dess what happens if they slide into Russia. He’s not sure, and tells us politely that even fences don’t always work.

When we get to the coast, and a sandy incline to the sea Tom Frode and I test the waters for a celebratory swim, and indeed the water is less cold than I had imagined, ‘though still excruciatingly chilly. Russian Border guards and their Norwegian colleagues wander over to observe our insanities ( Tom tells me that he doesn’t need to swim to prove he’s cool or stupid). The guards also fall to discussing the Sami who’d wanted to cross the border after their beasts. They must have been chasing the herd we passed. On this occasion the Sami have been assisted and slid over to retrieve their herd, with chaperons of course. All was well, no tempers ruffled. The guards told us this happens increasingly - and especially in winter. A sign of changing habits, earlier spring migration for the herds, and consequently signs of climate warming?

Dr D awaits further evidence of variations, but the melting glacier we pass on our journey back to base camp suggests that climate change has many facets here, and that the reindeer are indeed searching for new pastures. We covered 60 kilometers today, sustained on the way by Roy’s (our wilderness and camera man) smoked salted lamb chops, toasted on the open fire. A Sauna before bed with our kindly hosts, whisky and schnapps watching Lars, the whizzkid Techy, roll in the snow. Tomorrow to the herders in the Pasvik Valley, a beautiful domain along the Russian border. Photos in the morning as Roy has fallen over with fatigue.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Barents Sea


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 10th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Tom Frode and Adam taking a bath. The first leg of our journey is now underway.

Photos by Jan Ivar Larsen

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Practice day in the field


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 8th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

We start late after Tom hand-picks each dog-team for us: Dessislav Sabev, Euan Cameron, and Adam Munthe (myself). We grab every dog by the collar, starting with the lead dogs, slip on their harness, and run each dog to his or her place before the sled. The dogs run on their back legs so keen are they to get into the traces, and howling with excitement. Rune, the Motel owner’s son, and a dog musher too, leads us out. He knows the border areas, and we need him. First day in the field, and we take turns in falling off the sledges. Dr Dess, chief scientist is nonchalant, Euan our journalist and writer, is apologetic, and I try and avoid being noticed when I crash. Unimpressive, but the sleds are lighter, more fragile than we had imagined, and the dogs, if the truth be told, are faster, stronger for their small size. These light, tough little beasties also have more heart and guts than I’’ve seen in dogs before.

There’’s a wide lazy pink sky growing round us as we approach the border early afternoon – a thick pole driven into the snow painted yellow shows the Norwegian frontier, and a similar painted red and green with the Russian eagle shows the Rusky border, two yards off. If you cross this invisible line unwittingly it’s a 1,000 Euro fine; wittingly, and you go to jail. The sentries, in their pill-boxes on the horizon, are over to get you on snow-scooters or by helicopter in very few minutes. While we’’ve been out, Lars, the computer whiz-kid, has been struggling with the NASA temperature-gauging equipment. Apparently they’ve failed to issue us with the information to use these Thermatrons. For catching snowflakes the deal is simpler. Our GPS will give us Longitude and Latitude, our thermometer will give us temperature, and our lenses will give us an idea of the snowflakes we’re identifying, for the experts at NASA to determine direction, pollution, climate change significance. Now all we need is a snowfall! Supper early, our chef Øyvind makes us great Whale steaks, and we avoid discussion on fishing behaviour in the Arctic.

To bed with weary limbs, for an early start to the Barents Sea tomorrow. Tom Frode has bet me that we two won’t take a bath together to mark the real start of our expedition…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The “Sounding Lights”


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

In the Sámi tradition the Northern Lights (The Sounding Lights in Sámi) were believed to have a supernatural power which could be called upon to resolve conflicts. Maybe we should try it over the world right now?

image001.gif

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The northen lights


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The amazing Aurora Borealis effect just outside Kirkenes on our first night preparing the expedition. Photo by Roy Sætre

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Meeting the huskies with Tom Frode, our chief guide


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Arrival in Solia


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Arrived last night alone to Solia - just outside Kirkenes - where Tom Frode, our chief guide, has booked cabins for the humans, space for the dogs. Temp 8 degrees below. Owners kind, hard-working couple who give me a great supper, reindeer steak, Lingon berries,spuds and carrots. One of the last normal meals. Good to have some hours alone before the team come in. Think of Nelly and the boys, Leigh, too who had a habit of reminding me that this trip could be harder than I imagined!. Must thank Axel, my 4 yr old grandson, for sending me a Dragon’s Tooth (painted by him) as a good luck charm. Test cameras, satellite phone. Cold clear night. Tom and computer whiz-kid Lars, looking like a scarecrow with the stuffing coming out, rattle in at 3.30am from Tromso with the dogs, sleds, and back-up truck. They’ll need to catch up on sleep today, but we’re all working by 9.30am.

Testing the computers and preparing this, our first diary message. When we get the dogs out of their mobile kennels we’ll include photos I hope! For the moment they’re all (32 of them) quiet, curled up on straw, two to a box on the trailer. When I pass, a black nose pokes out through the grill here and there with a snuffle, a gentle growl of interest. Tom for all his experience has never done a trip like this. The logistics have been complex, coordinating meetings with nomads is almost a contradiction in terms, so we’re both keeping our fingers crossed.’ That’s all for the moment.