Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class wpdb in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 49

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 35

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Object_Cache in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 400

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 553

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 674

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/query.php on line 15

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/theme.php on line 505
Finnmark 2007 Diary » week 1

Archive for the ‘week 1’ Category


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Natural Wonders…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

For the past 24 hours we have been privileged to see some of the most exciting and impressive natural visual wonders our planet can offer. Last night we were granted the rare blessing of a glimpse of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) for the second night in a row. Hard to convey the sheer mystery and beauty of these eerie wraith-like spirits that dance and weave like unearthly searchlights or angry spirits through the Polar sky in winter, constantly moving and changing shape; usually the light is green, though sometimes you can see vermillion or purple. The experience is humbling and awesome. Today we set off at 8.00am with our dog teams, Tom Frode, our brilliant guide, Adam, Dr Dess, Euan and Ellin, our Sami interpreter and herself a reindeer owner; five teams of six dogs (mine - Euan’s - are called Freue, Heidi, Chiara, Emil, Dusty and Tina) - and we travelled 93 km west and then south on our first truly sunny day. The landscape was breathtaking, the snow sparkling and crystalline in the morning light, the heavens resplendent in a pale azure sky. Over the mostly flat tundra we dashed and swerved, and in my case losing control on several occasions due to the changed fast and slippery surface of the snow. We saw traces of arctic fox, wolverine and many birds including a ptarmigan which Adam saw take off. Once we crossed a larger, 12-dog team coming in the opposite direction and moving at great speed; they were taking part in one of the great sporting events in these parts, the annual Finnmark dog-sledding race, and towards the end of our trek we caught sight of a lake that was a pale shade of almond-green. We also crossed a 3-4 km expanse of sea-ice, which resembled some weird natural sculpture park. Weary and bruised, we arrived in Varengbotn at about 5.30pm and were relieved to discover that we have a room for the night, with sheets! After supper in a converted church hall, we had the great news that the Royal Geographical Society have formally approved our expedition, permitted us use of their logo, and have entered us on their expedition catalogue. We shall sleep tonight!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Herding in a time of change


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

While in Langfjorden, we met Inge, a member of a reindeer-herding family who, together with four other families, owns a herd of 2,500 reindeer (winter size). The herd is currently in its winter range, the Örve Pasvik valley close to the Finish border, some 80km southwest from Langfjorden. This border has been fenced against reindeer cross-border migrations since 1955. There are also some large fenced areas on the other side along the Russian border. Reindeer are under structural pressure just as humans are: their movements, migration, and strategies for survival are impacted upon by economic, social, and environmental change, as well as by national policies. Yet, what bothers a reindeer does not necessarily bother a reindeer-herder: fences strengthen human control over the herd and help to avoid eventual problems as the one we witnessed yesterday when a whole border-guard operation was set off by a few reindeer that had crossed the Russian border.. Reindeer-herding families in this area also use fences to close the winter pastures after the herd has left for summer migration up in the Barents coast in the North.

No fence can stop air pollution though, and this whole area has suffered from the heavy smog that has been floating for decades over the neighbouring town of Nickel on the Kola Peninsula. This industrial pollution reached its peak in the middle-to-late 80s, and has since decreased to the point where it is no longer perceived as a major problem by the reindeer herders we met. In fact, this contented family did not express any significant worries. Even so, they have had to develop certain strategies to assist the reindeer in adapting to environmental change.

Winter forage feeding: This interesting and somewhat controversial strategy has not been adopted everywhere in the reindeer-herding world. But in this family’s opinion, giving additional grass-food in winter is the best way to prepare the animals for bad seasons when plant resources might be scarce or not accessible because of icy tundra. A rainfall in early winter is enough to “lock” lichens (reindeer’s natural winter food) under an icy blanket, leaving the herd without food. The winter 2006/7 encountered this problem and it is likely to become more common as climate change continues to develop. Thus Inge argues that all herders in the future won’t have any choice but to feed their reindeer with winter forage. If the animals do not adapt to this feed, the herders will struggle. In this respect, Inge’s reindeer are adapting well to climate change and, interestingly enough, they are larger than other reindeer in the region.
No vaccination campaigns: While Inge domesticates his reindeer with additional winter food, he refuses to treat them against insects or possible infection. He argues that reindeer have to develop immunity and/or resilience to both insects and disease, and so will adapt more easily to possible effects of global warming.

Herd sizes: Unlike the well-known strategies towards expanding herd sizes and reindeer production that have been once applied (especially on the neighbouring Kola Peninsula and the Soviet North), the reindeer-herding owners in the area have set rules on upper-limit herd size (2,500) and one-family animals in a herd (500). As herd size is mostly controlled through slaughter, the latter acquires significance not only for the community’s economy but also for the community’s social relations. That is why at the time of the slaughter corral in late November ­ early December, the families also do the calf marking, which is a far from simple exercise: each calf gets the mark of the herd, the mark of the family, and the mark of the herder that owns it! Marking a calf is a social statement about taking ownership, responsibility, accepting rules, and developing social relations.

image.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Rangna Isaaks


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

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We met Rangna Isaaks, a Sea Sámi lady of 83. She’s got 4 children, 13 grandchildren, and so far only 17 greatgrandchildren, and she wants to die with her boots on. “Know what I mean?” she asked us. “No Old Age Pensioner’s home, no Alzheimers, no armchair in front of the TV wearing nappies and stinking of piss.” She’s half blind but is willing to sell us the socks she’s just finished making, but only after she’s mangled them through the washing machine so they feel like felt, for our reindeer boots. Six when her mother died, ten when her father departed, she started work at 12 years old, for a railway worker’s family. When there was no food on the table she took the children, pushed the boat out, and fished until they caught their dinner. “Never had reindeer”. She and her husband survived by fishing but “I’m still a true Sámi”, she said grinning through her wrinkles at Ellen-Anne our young translator (who does have reindeer).

The Germans set fire to her home town of Kirkenes during the 2nd World War, as they retreated before the Russians, “but I couldn’t go down to the bomb shelter so we left on foot for the mountains!” She and her husband lived and survived by fishing, and she fought her evil half-sister (who’d denied her the education she been promised) and the rest of Norwegian society who looked down on her indigenous background. Her children were shy to be proud of being Sámi, as she put it for us, but the grandchildren KNEW she was right. “And I’ve always been ahead of my time,” she told Tom Frode. “Look at the bags I made 15 years ago for the sledges! The most modern design that you’ve only just reinvented yourselves.” Tom nods his head. “She’s right!” he grins. “I should have been a boy,” she sighs, “but there were a few bits missing. God had none in the store that day, but he said to me, Rangna, you can be anything you want. And do you know fellows, I was. And still am! Come to my 100th birthday party if you’re still alive. It’s on the Norwegian National Holiday!” She showed us her baskets and quilts, and we went back at dawn the next day for our socks, and yes, they’re clearly the best.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Kurt Magge, herder


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

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Herding: We met Kurt Magge, a square laughing man with Turkic features, whose openness, honesty, and enthusiasm to communicate his thoughts on reindeer husbandry in a changing world, was of enormous value to the team. The next morning he was generous enough to invite us out to his herds where we spent an extraordinary day. But that’s for tomorrow, all being well! Kurt was born in the 1950s, and started work at 14 with his family. At 19 he’d already taken over the herds after his father died, and now works with a brother, his uncle, and a cousin. These four respective families own the only herd in the whole area around Neiden! They have government concessions over the land they use. This kind of extended-family ownership is typical for reindeer husbandry in the region.

Kurt is presently teaching his silent, competent and beautiful 21-year-old son to herd and eventually to take over. In total, the four families represent 15 individual owners, which is why there are 15 different ear marks within the herd’s animals. As there are no other herds in the neighbourhood, the marks we saw are relatively simple compared to the ones in regions with a greater density of herds. In the first week of May the herd moves to an island some 50km North from the winter range. Females give birth there, the calf-marking corral is then operated in July, and the herd swims back to the summer pastures on the mainland.

Predators: In regards to this herd, predators are the biggest issue, and this not only during the calving. Fox and eagles are the main predators, with wolves coming in from Russia and Finland who sometimes are responsible for dramatic losses, such as the one that recently killed 15-20 reindeer in two months. This is an especially sensitive issue with the government. In theory, the government compensates losses caused by predators but in practice so few claims have been accepted that an owner rarely receives more than one-tenth of his claimed losses. While photos of mercilessly destroyed animals are presented as evidence, with spore and tracks shown of the predators, convincing government bureaucrats that a reindeer has been killed by such predators is rarely effective. By presenting evidences of predator’s activity, herders look not only for financial compensations but also for a right to shoot the predator. Here they find themselves opposed by the wildlife protection lobbies who don’t know what they’re talking about necessarily, and who confuse traditional predators with much more recently introduced beasts of prey (lynx, eagle for eg which possibly shouldn’t even be there) and muddled (consequently paralysed) government policy.

Wolves, wolverine, fox and bear have grown used to modern inventions like the snowmobile, so are no longer afraid of them (they too have become part of the “natural” environment). Hence the predators are part of a changing climate, i.e. they were born and grow up in a technological environment!

Climate Change: Regarding Kurt’s understanding and concerns for climate change, he shares with Inger the belief that feeding the animals with additional winter forage is the best strategy towards dealing with the more obvious effects of climate change. i.e by training the animals to greater domesticity they become more easily influenced by human views on adaptability, and can be moved, collected, regulated, with greater facility. Kurt has already noticed that over the last five years the spring and early summer migrations have had steadily to be advanced, to account for the changing weather patterns. He has also noted that in this year (2006/7) the late autumn, created considerable hardship both for his herds, and for many herders throughout Finnmark. In Swedish Sapmi, they talk of this being the worst winter since 1936, with many reindeer starving. This, in a way, proves his point to have begun - a long time ago - to feed his reindeer with hay in winter because of poorer winter forage due to later autumns, winter rain over snow, followed by ice which prevents the reindeer from getting through to the lichens and nourishment with their hooves.

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Meeting the local herders


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Sunday, March 11th, 2007

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Kirkenes to Neiden… 45 kilometers over mountainous terrain, hilly, tough going, and exhausting. A magical landscape with the sun surreptitiously slipping over the hills –- pale, ghostly, and heart-breakingly beautiful as we swept alone into and out of the deep silences. A couple of great herds of reindeer in the distance, and meetings arranged with two of the distinguished local herders for the evening: Kurt Magge who’ has been a reindeer herder since the age of fourteen and has watched the seasons change with climate change; and Kåre Sivertsen, another herder full of traditional knowledge. Both herders are Sámi, and with Ellen-Anne Siri, our Sámi translator with us, we should be accepted as friends. We’’ll be going out to the herds in their winter pastures for the first time and hope to bring you back some good pictures of life in the early spring with the reindeer. The diary will appear tomorrow as we catch up with ourselves. The photos in this post present the landscape as we slip into nightfall - the Northern Lights are rising outside as I write…

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Coast to coast…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Saturday, March 10th, 2007

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With the dogs to the Barents Sea (Grenze Jakobselv), our most Northerly and Easterly point. This is where we really start the expedition, at least in our minds, aiming to reach the Atlantic in a month to five weeks time. Its snowing which means the weather is quite mild (usually between plus and minus three degrees) but we don’t have time to start data collection on snowflakes, and if the truth be told the snow is icy and looks terrible under a magnifying glass ( ie not the beautiful crystal patterns we’re supposed to find). We pass a herd of frightened reindeer galloping across the lake towards the Russian border and I ask Dr Dess what happens if they slide into Russia. He’s not sure, and tells us politely that even fences don’t always work.

When we get to the coast, and a sandy incline to the sea Tom Frode and I test the waters for a celebratory swim, and indeed the water is less cold than I had imagined, ‘though still excruciatingly chilly. Russian Border guards and their Norwegian colleagues wander over to observe our insanities ( Tom tells me that he doesn’t need to swim to prove he’s cool or stupid). The guards also fall to discussing the Sami who’d wanted to cross the border after their beasts. They must have been chasing the herd we passed. On this occasion the Sami have been assisted and slid over to retrieve their herd, with chaperons of course. All was well, no tempers ruffled. The guards told us this happens increasingly - and especially in winter. A sign of changing habits, earlier spring migration for the herds, and consequently signs of climate warming?

Dr D awaits further evidence of variations, but the melting glacier we pass on our journey back to base camp suggests that climate change has many facets here, and that the reindeer are indeed searching for new pastures. We covered 60 kilometers today, sustained on the way by Roy’s (our wilderness and camera man) smoked salted lamb chops, toasted on the open fire. A Sauna before bed with our kindly hosts, whisky and schnapps watching Lars, the whizzkid Techy, roll in the snow. Tomorrow to the herders in the Pasvik Valley, a beautiful domain along the Russian border. Photos in the morning as Roy has fallen over with fatigue.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Barents Sea


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Saturday, March 10th, 2007

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Tom Frode and Adam taking a bath. The first leg of our journey is now underway.

Photos by Jan Ivar Larsen

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Practice day in the field


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Thursday, March 8th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

We start late after Tom hand-picks each dog-team for us: Dessislav Sabev, Euan Cameron, and Adam Munthe (myself). We grab every dog by the collar, starting with the lead dogs, slip on their harness, and run each dog to his or her place before the sled. The dogs run on their back legs so keen are they to get into the traces, and howling with excitement. Rune, the Motel owner’s son, and a dog musher too, leads us out. He knows the border areas, and we need him. First day in the field, and we take turns in falling off the sledges. Dr Dess, chief scientist is nonchalant, Euan our journalist and writer, is apologetic, and I try and avoid being noticed when I crash. Unimpressive, but the sleds are lighter, more fragile than we had imagined, and the dogs, if the truth be told, are faster, stronger for their small size. These light, tough little beasties also have more heart and guts than I’’ve seen in dogs before.

There’’s a wide lazy pink sky growing round us as we approach the border early afternoon – a thick pole driven into the snow painted yellow shows the Norwegian frontier, and a similar painted red and green with the Russian eagle shows the Rusky border, two yards off. If you cross this invisible line unwittingly it’s a 1,000 Euro fine; wittingly, and you go to jail. The sentries, in their pill-boxes on the horizon, are over to get you on snow-scooters or by helicopter in very few minutes. While we’’ve been out, Lars, the computer whiz-kid, has been struggling with the NASA temperature-gauging equipment. Apparently they’ve failed to issue us with the information to use these Thermatrons. For catching snowflakes the deal is simpler. Our GPS will give us Longitude and Latitude, our thermometer will give us temperature, and our lenses will give us an idea of the snowflakes we’re identifying, for the experts at NASA to determine direction, pollution, climate change significance. Now all we need is a snowfall! Supper early, our chef Øyvind makes us great Whale steaks, and we avoid discussion on fishing behaviour in the Arctic.

To bed with weary limbs, for an early start to the Barents Sea tomorrow. Tom Frode has bet me that we two won’t take a bath together to mark the real start of our expedition…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The “Sounding Lights”


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

In the Sámi tradition the Northern Lights (The Sounding Lights in Sámi) were believed to have a supernatural power which could be called upon to resolve conflicts. Maybe we should try it over the world right now?

image001.gif

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The northen lights


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

The amazing Aurora Borealis effect just outside Kirkenes on our first night preparing the expedition. Photo by Roy Sætre

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Meeting the huskies with Tom Frode, our chief guide


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Arrival in Solia


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Arrived last night alone to Solia - just outside Kirkenes - where Tom Frode, our chief guide, has booked cabins for the humans, space for the dogs. Temp 8 degrees below. Owners kind, hard-working couple who give me a great supper, reindeer steak, Lingon berries,spuds and carrots. One of the last normal meals. Good to have some hours alone before the team come in. Think of Nelly and the boys, Leigh, too who had a habit of reminding me that this trip could be harder than I imagined!. Must thank Axel, my 4 yr old grandson, for sending me a Dragon’s Tooth (painted by him) as a good luck charm. Test cameras, satellite phone. Cold clear night. Tom and computer whiz-kid Lars, looking like a scarecrow with the stuffing coming out, rattle in at 3.30am from Tromso with the dogs, sleds, and back-up truck. They’ll need to catch up on sleep today, but we’re all working by 9.30am.

Testing the computers and preparing this, our first diary message. When we get the dogs out of their mobile kennels we’ll include photos I hope! For the moment they’re all (32 of them) quiet, curled up on straw, two to a box on the trailer. When I pass, a black nose pokes out through the grill here and there with a snuffle, a gentle growl of interest. Tom for all his experience has never done a trip like this. The logistics have been complex, coordinating meetings with nomads is almost a contradiction in terms, so we’re both keeping our fingers crossed.’ That’s all for the moment.