Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class wpdb in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 49

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 35

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Object_Cache in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/cache.php on line 400

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 534

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 553

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 649

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/classes.php on line 674

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/query.php on line 15

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/theme.php on line 505
Finnmark 2007 Diary » week 2

Archive for the ‘week 2’ Category


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Stats for March 20th


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 20th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Lat: 69,24,08 N Long: 24,39,03 E.
Time of reading 7am, March 20.
Snow temperature: minus 4 degrees.
Air temperature: minus 5 degrees.
Wind: North North East


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

More Northern Lights


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Tuesday, March 20th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Passing thoughts on Sámi women


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Monday, March 19th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

It seems to me (Euan) that it is the Sámi women in Finnmark who tend to be more cultivated and are often better educated than their spouses - at least those in the middle-aged range. This would seem to be the case among the Sámi families we have encountered along our route, into whose homes we have been invited and whose hospitality we have enjoyed. Dr Dess tells me that this is certainly the case among Sámis on the Kola Peninsula.

The man sees his responsibility as being primarily towards his herd, his reindeer being his wealth and status (indeed it is considered very discourteous to ask a herder how many head of reindeer he owns; it would be like asking a banker what his salary is!). He is happy to take up the rigorous demands of a job that has been handed down by generations of forebears, while relinquishing the education of his children, freedom to consider working alternatives, and cultural considerations to his wife. An example of this would be Laila Smuk, whom we first met in Kirkenes, and later in her and herder-husband Ragnar’s home in Varangerbotn. Originally from Lillehammer, she is presently the headmistress of the local school, and as a young woman had always felt the lure of the North and took her first teaching job in Finnmark. The mother of two children, she spoke warmly and wisely about them and the children she teaches (whom she was about to take to the Sámi Museum that morning) and feels they are very fortunate to be growing up in communities where they are free of the pressures experienced in most of the rest of Europe: principally the privilege of growing up in an environment that is so far unpolluted, and in which they are taught to live and to feel at home.

I spoke to Laila for half an hour or so while Adam and Dr Dess were feeding reindeer questions to Ragnar, her husband, and felt an immediate affinity with her and with her clear, positive and well informed vision of how life should be lived in an isolated part of the world. May all her dreams for her children be fulfilled!


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

The white reindeer


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Monday, March 19th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Ragnar’s calf


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Sunday, March 18th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

First snow-fall reading for NASA project…
Lat: 69.24,08 N. Long: 24,39,03 E.
Time of reading: March 18th, 2007, 08.50am. Snow temperature minus 3.5. Air temperature minus 2 degrees.
Snowfall with South East wind.

We continue with NASA Thermacron project taking snow temperature readings every 60 minutes. These give graphics and historigrams for snow temperature variations every 60 minutes. Interpretation of this data will permit NASA to create models for climate change.

Notes from our interview in Varangebotn:
Ragnar owns a part of a significant family reindeer herd. His 25-year-old nephew Jan-Andreas (who looks like a sixteen year old) is also a full-time herder, a way of life that he visibly enjoys. Everyday one of them (and often both) takes a combined car/snowmobile ride to the winter area where his animals graze. The pasture terrain being rather alpine, they have to know the ice-free areas in order to find their reindeer flocks. The purpose of these time-and-energy-consuming visits is to watch out for predators (wolverine, lynx, and eagles) and to check for injured reindeer. During our visit to the winter range this turned out to be the case.

Ragnar had spotted an injured calf during his visit the day before, and had came back fully equipped and, importantly, supported by his young nephew. It took them around 25 minutes to find the calf. The presence of crows is a good indicator for the presence of either injured animals or predators and those black messengers of doom were preparing for a banquet! Jan Andreas rode quickly to the calf, made a tight tour round the beast and caught it with his own hands. He took it on his snowmobile to a flat area for examination. The calf had probably fallen on ice (according to Ragnar) or on rocks (according to my own observation). This kind of injury can happen, as this terrain is rugged, steep and rocky. Otherwise the calf was in good shape, weighting no less than 30kg (born in May, the calves are about 10-month old). It will stay in the fenced garden by the family house, and will be fed by his owner, until Spring migration to the calving grounds and summer pastures.

When we returned to the house, we saw two other calves in the garden. One of them was injured, the other Jan-Andrea’s sister had taken the previous autumn from their uncle’s herd. Jan-Andrea fed them not with hay as I’’d been expecting, but with real delicious lichens, and the best of them (caldonia stellaris by its latin name). Of course he also gives hay but this was the very first time we saw a herder giving lichens to a calf from the hand. The rest of the herd are not fed until just before slaughter. Ragnar and Jan-Andreas do in fact have a picturesque home-made slaughter machine installed in the garden for domestic purposes. As most of the herders in this region, they do not slaughter their reindeer by themselves but sell on to the famous slaughterhouse in Karasjok.

This family is a good example of the importance of modern technology in a traditional economy. First in the list of all reindeer-herding mod cons, the snowmobile is a crucial element with multiple highly important uses. It is the herder’s mean of transport to the herd, keeping the herds together (there are no fences in this family winter range), protecting against predators, acting as outrider for corralling, and finally, reaching individual animals in difficulty as in our case. Good binnacles are another essential prerequisite to find missing reindeer or a reindeer section of a herd in the rugged alpine terrain. Finally, the mobile phone is crucial not only for communication between herders in the tundra but also for communication between herders and government.

As we have mentioned in previous field-notes, the government may compensate some reindeer losses due to predators, if really convincing proof is offered with strong evidence of predator’s damage on herd. Successful compensation claims by all accounts and as published in local newspapers remain lamentably few. But Jan-Andrea’s’ mobile phone is packed with pictures of reindeer attacked by predators. Some of them are so impressive that I believe they may even convince government officers.

Håkan Henrikson, a local government wildlife ranger (Utmarksoppsyn) and Sami, whom we met by chance when he offered a lift to an injured member of the expedition team, admitted that his job was difficult. He suggested that mixed messages were being delivered from both sides, from the government who wavered between strong pseudo environmentalist pressure, a desire not to spend more money than necessary on reparation, and a genuine wish in certain spheres to control predation more effectively. On the Herders’ side there were certainly exaggerations, perhaps largely due to repeated failures to get appropriate help.

image001.jpg

A wounded calf brought home for treatment


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Recapitulation on the Tana River


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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Saturday, March 17th, 2007

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To recapitulate a bit. If you can find a map of the top of Scandinavia, from the Russian- Norwegian coastline border (East), to Narvik and the Lofoten (West), it will be easier.

After an exploratory day in Pasvik valley running along the Russian border, we started from Grenze Jacobselv , moving round past Kirkenes to Neiden on the border, and then a huge day (94.5 kilometers) travelling past Sopnes into the Tundra and through to Varangarbotn on the Varangerfjorden. This is an ancient Sea Sami centre, and they have a small, and magical museum of international quality on the Sea Sami. Here we met a number of herders, before turning West, and a long day’s mushing towards a small community called Sirma. The dogs are indefatigable, and it’s only after a couple of hours that you discover that together you’ve acquired a rhythm and an average speed that they seem capable of maintaining for ever. They have hearts like houses! From Sirma we pushed on another 70 plus kilometers with the dogs North of Utsjok to the outskirts of a hamlet on the Tana called Leavvajohka, and then today to the Norwegian side of Karigasniemi, where we’ve found a cabin for the night. We’ve now been travelling for three days along the Tana river, sliding beneath the Tana Sami bridge, a place a profound significance to the Sami who have always revered this river for its riches in fish, for its natural splendour, and as a place of spiritual significance remembered especially in their haunting sung music ( Yoiking).

Tomorrow we’ll be pushing hard again in order to pass Karasok to Jergol which we’ll make our base for a couple of days to meet a number of herders, and to go up into the Tundra/Taiga to see their herds, and most importantly, to be able to spend time with these people in a context that doesn’t seem like an artificial interview. For we all talk differently when we’re talking about what we know and love - with the object of our affections and knowledge close by - and the Sami are no exception. This to the extent that they’re justifiably suspicious of our rational, scientific, linear ways of getting or nicking ‘facts’ or ‘information’, because their wisdom and knowledge isn’t always open to words…

Then I started thinking again about why we’re making this journey across the top of Scandinavia. For us all oddly enough - for Dr Dess the social anthropologist, for Euan Cameron, the writer and publisher, for David Sington the film-maker, and Ellen-Anne Siri our young and beautiful reindeer-herder too, and for your diarist today, this journey is about facing an urgency that we all feel, concerning the future… The urgency is to do with a search for quality I suppose, and simplicity, and with the uneasy feeling that our debts are being called in. A great and awesome debt to the breathing space, the environment, that gave us existence.or simply a place to be, that we’ve always taken for granted. We need to understand more, and to do so we need to ask the help of those who live in the wild and hard and unforgiving and beautiful places of this world..like the Sami!

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

It’s a dog’s life…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Saturday, March 17th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

Mathis, who doesn’t wear the trousers.

image001.jpg

image002.jpg

Spiro.

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Simple things


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Friday, March 16th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

I spent the day with the back-up team to see their work, spirit, sense of fun, and check that all was well with them. I’m glad I did, and we exchanged many jokes in poor taste with much pleasure. Roy is a photographer, wilderness man, who tells me he’s only frightened in cities, of accidents, death under a bus, of noisy thieves, but never in the wild. Jan Ivar is a jack-of -all-trades, mechanic, dog musher, snow mobile king. Tom Frode had got us up at 6am because the film people wanted an hour shooting pictures of the departure onto the river. Everyone slowly froze, but the mood improved with the day.

The mushers were moving up the Tana river towards Karasok, with 65 kilometers to do, and the prospect of a cabin with non electric sauna waiting. Karasok is the administrative centre of Sapmi, near where we will stop to meet reindeer herders. The temperatures were round minus 5, but the wind factor significantly increased the cold. Dull grey skies gave way to brilliant blue, and the mushers watched the snow swept off the distant hills like chalk dust on a picture. David Sington, the film-maker took my sled, and dogs for the day - Spiro, little lead bitch with a man’s name, and a mind of her own (when Mathis, her running mate, goes out of line she humps him). Then comes Madonna with one blue eye who gives the impression of running fast but her line is rarely taut, coupled with Fang, a skinny wolf-looking creature who’s always on the verge of biting someone, and then the team’s engine just in front of the sled being Frodo, Fang’s half-brother, a black and white cross with floppy ears, and a mad streak ( he just knows he can pull the sled by himself even when I’ve got my foot on the brake), and Kjelling pronouncing Chelling, a big black softy with a heart of gold, and guts to match - nothing stops him once asked to give.

This evening we get to wash ourselves, and our knickers at least in my case, as well as a purifying sauna after a bitter ragged night spent in the Tundra with a filthy wind howling through our tents until the snow gave way to slush and rain round 5am.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Feeding the herds


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 14th, 2007

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76

image002.jpg

image001.jpg

image001.jpg

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

With the herds…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 11

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 20

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 22

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25
Wednesday, March 14th, 2007

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The Vidda: We’ have now spent two days out on the Vidda, in the field with the reindeer herders. Still on the winter pastures, the reindeer are now preparing to move in the beginning of April to the spring calving grounds where they calves will be born in the end of May. For the moment, though, they’re still spread widely over the fjälls, running in small herds, and keeping alive on a bare subsistence diet unless helped out with winter forage by their owners. It’s true that the reindeers’ feeding habits change, as does their metabolism, reducing their appetites in winter when they will have to live off their own fat, gained through summer and autumn feeding in the fjälls or close to the sea, or even on the islands to which they swim.

The Herders: Knut Magge and Jon Arne Nessan have much in common as Sami reindeer herders, working harder than you or I would believe possible in harsh conditions at all times of the year, and with the same problems of increasing predation from wild animals, as well as from the two-legged variety invading their traditional territories for energy, tourist, and other economic interests which reduce reindeer pastures, harass the herds, disrupt their livelihood. These two men are also both proud to be called Flyt Sámi or Nomadic (i.e. reindeer-herding) Sámi, carrying on the traditions of their elders and ancestors stretching back for 10,000 years. They both consider that Sámi culture rests entirely in their hands, for without the reindeer, and the seasonal migrations, the yoiking (song-singing) in the wild, the Duodji (handicraft industry based on the reindeer’s parts!) what is left? The Sea Sámi have nearly disappeared as the Russian fleets take over the fishing, and those left behind are old. As for the Fastboende Sámi (Settled Sami) who live like the Norwegians in houses and villages - what can they give to Sapmi ( the area in the four Nordic countries where Sámi people are to be found)…? Thus tends to be the thinking, –arrogant you might say, of the Flyt (nomadic) or Reindeer Herding Sámi people.

Differences: But these two remarkable men also differ in crucial respects. The first and most obvious difference regards herd feeding. Knut Magge provides winter fodder for his herds, thereby taming them to a remarkable degree (which is why we can get so close to the animals, as you’ll see from the pictures). He does this, whatever the weather or natural food supply, in order to be able to provide for the herds in harder times… with climate change for example. Jon Arne Nessan consider such an attitude is likely to reduce the animals’ capacity to adapt. Besides some supplements given out at the autumn/winter corral when the reindeer are marked, and selected for slaughter, there is no feeding with Jon Arne’s herds. They also differ in their attitude to climate change, where Knut speaks of seeing, experiencing rapid change not comparable to anything he’’s known or read about. He told us that over the last five years he’s had to start migration to the island calving grounds a week earlier each year for example. This is due to wet snow, too much rain, and muddy conditions rendering it difficult to move. Jon Arne, on the other hand, while he has been keeping records of temperature, snow condition, rainfall, wind direction and force since 1987, is more circumspect. He reminded us of his father-in-law’s insistence that during the 1930s conditions had been very similar to now, with warm winters, less snow cover, and lots of rain. He said,” it’s day to day, and maybe this change starts like in the 1930s but is growing more and more. Everything changes, everything is a risk, and the landscape decides how you work and live with the reindeer in the end!”

The Reindeer: We stopped half a dozen times with Knut’s herds to feed them the hay and food supplements he provides off his sledge and snow mobile. The herds in each case numbered between 60 and 200 animals. Although timid, and skittish at the first hasty movement from us strangers, they drew closer and closer to the sledges to feed. A young white yearling circled warily before returning again and again to eat. Its huge soft eyes, glistening luxurious pelt, and apparent sympathy with us was eerie and a delight. I saw at once why the white reindeer are considered to have magical powers, and managed to stroke its back as it passed. The beasts churned round us, a buck sometimes shunting its neighbours out of the way with a vivid twist of his antlers… So from the Tundra, or the Vidda as the Sámi call it themselves, we leave you today… with the hope that this sketch on the reality of Sámi life in harsh, daunting, extraordinary conditions can touch something in each of you… of us… and the photos will tell you more!