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Finnmark 2007 Diary http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary Follow the experiences of the expedition team Fri, 18 Feb 2011 12:16:36 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.1 en The journey’s end http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/12/the-journeys-end/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/12/the-journeys-end/#comments Wed, 11 Apr 2007 23:50:06 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/12/the-journeys-end/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
We’re outside Narvik on the West coast of Norway with a stiff wind blowing into our faces off the Atlantic. The dogs are being loaded onto the trailers, the wind sighs into the dwarf birches and the scattered pines, and the sun’s pushing through the clouds over the peaks behind us. What have we just completed? [...]]]>
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From Sjangeli mountain to the sea at Skjornen Fjord on the Atlantic http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/11/from-sjangeli-mountain-to-the-sea-at-skjornen-fjord-on-the-atlantic/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/11/from-sjangeli-mountain-to-the-sea-at-skjornen-fjord-on-the-atlantic/#comments Wed, 11 Apr 2007 08:12:09 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/11/from-sjangeli-mountain-to-the-sea-at-skjornen-fjord-on-the-atlantic/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
This was the hardest weather we’ve experienced on the expedition. After a great evening with Marja’s generous parents at their cabin, and the usual selfless support from Tommy, and Roy, we left from this mountain-top in a blizzard with visibility down to a few metres. Even with GPS we’re having to stop every few metres [...]]]>
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Dr Dessislav Sabev on the reindeer herders’ fight for survival http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/10/dr-dessislav-sabev-on-the-reindeer-herders-fight-for-survival/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/10/dr-dessislav-sabev-on-the-reindeer-herders-fight-for-survival/#comments Tue, 10 Apr 2007 08:47:40 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/10/dr-dessislav-sabev-on-the-reindeer-herders-fight-for-survival/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Here we have attempted to describe the general conditions under which Sami reindeer-herders tend to work, the difficulties that they face, and some aspects of the future which faces them. Conditions are precarious, not only for reasons of weather or climate change, but also because of government policies, competition with countries producing cheaper reindeer meat, [...]]]>
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Tom Frode reflects on the journey http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/tom-frodes-impressions/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/tom-frodes-impressions/#comments Sun, 08 Apr 2007 16:59:30 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/tom-frodes-impressions/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
I asked Tom Frode, our guide, to write today’s diary, but he said, “it’s too hard, I work for the logistics, organising things as we move along on the journey.” “You Adam, for example, were a pain in the arse at the beginning, testing my capability to solve problems with all the things [...]]]>
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The last day in the mountains http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/pics-for-diary/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/pics-for-diary/#comments Sun, 08 Apr 2007 15:49:32 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/08/pics-for-diary/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
The dogs before leaving on the last day in the mountains. The conditions were the worst we’d experienced during the entire expedition. Madonna, the lazy bitch, and Trouble - what a heart in the hills! Kjelling, the bravest, and Malten my tough silent guy. Spiro, my lead dog, and her son Potte. ]]>
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Back from the wild http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/06/back-from-the-wild/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/06/back-from-the-wild/#comments Fri, 06 Apr 2007 20:10:12 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/06/back-from-the-wild/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Yesterday we mushed 50 odd kilometres down Johan Turi’s home ground on the great lake Torneträsk to Abisko. We’re approaching civilization again, and now in Abisko the noise of snow-machines and people is disconcerting after so many days in the wild. Each of us, in his or her own way, is experiencing trepidation [...]]]>
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Home to Johan Turi http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/home-to-johan-turi/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/home-to-johan-turi/#comments Wed, 04 Apr 2007 21:26:51 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/home-to-johan-turi/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Date: April 4th Time: 20.30pm Air temp: minus 4 Snow temp: minus 5 Lat: 68 degrees, 17, 24 N Long: 19 degrees, 15, 44 E Today we travelled from beneath Cokcu (the Holy Mountain) to Lahtteluokta, [...]]]>
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Watching over the dogs http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/tireless-friends/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/tireless-friends/#comments Wed, 04 Apr 2007 20:22:58 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/04/tireless-friends/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Temperatures descending as we move back into winter. Our local friend, Marja’s uncle, Ola Påve, said it’s the new weather instability that most concerns the herders. From Rostujauri to Cokcu (the holy mountain) we’ve had a bitter wind and a hard days mushing, the sledge creaking on the dogs’ run, and the snow creaking too [...]]]>
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An uncertain future… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/03/an-uncertain-future/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/03/an-uncertain-future/#comments Tue, 03 Apr 2007 10:06:57 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/03/an-uncertain-future/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Temperature minus 8º and dropping, wet weather in store although a beautiful day and less wind. Yesterday was a hard day - 55 kms from Lyngen Fjord to Rostujärvi Lake. The weather forecast was bad, and Tom Frode considered returning, but once we’d climbed and sweated into the fields, there was no going [...]]]>
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Norway’’s greatest war hero http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/02/norway-and-ww2/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/02/norway-and-ww2/#comments Mon, 02 Apr 2007 07:22:58 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/02/norway-and-ww2/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
We’’re continually delighted by the hospitality, openness and sheer friendliness shown to us by people here in the small coastal communities of North Troms. On Palm Sunday, in Furuflaten, we were welcomed by one of Tom-Frode and his wife Liz’’s closest friends Wiktor Sørensen, the Chief Executive of Norut in Tromso. During the course of [...]]]>
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The sacred Sámi stone http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/pics-for-diary-31st-march/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/pics-for-diary-31st-march/#comments Sun, 01 Apr 2007 14:50:42 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/pics-for-diary-31st-march/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
The sacred Sami stone, the size of a small cathedral, set in a drifting snow-steeped valley swept round a lake of icy curves, blue as bounty, where the fish are best! This giant stone’s nooks and crannies were filled with small offerings given to the gods - a fly fishing hook, coins, small tools, a [...]]]>
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Healers and seers http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/30th31st-march-diary/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/30th31st-march-diary/#comments Sun, 01 Apr 2007 08:29:58 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/04/01/30th31st-march-diary/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Latitude: 69 degrees,06 58 N Longitude: 20 degrees,06 01 E Temperature: -8 Time: 9am Date: 30th March 2007 The journey proceeds, meetings continue with these hard-working, joyful spit-in-the-palms-and knuckle-down people who find no contradiction in being semi-nomadic farming workers since ten thousand years ( ie not prone to hasty working decisions) AND deeply imbued with a motivating sense of [...]]]>
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In the high tundra http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/in-the-high-tundra/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/in-the-high-tundra/#comments Thu, 29 Mar 2007 17:37:31 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/in-the-high-tundra/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Thursday, 29th March from Somajauri to Dittnulahku, the longest day we’ve had on this expedition climbing up the two peaks, one of 1020 metres and the next one 1050 metres. Last night we met a Sámi healer, and we hope to meet him for an interview in the next few days. Yesterday we just [...]]]>
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The snowflake lady http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/the-snowflake-lady/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/the-snowflake-lady/#comments Thu, 29 Mar 2007 08:27:28 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/29/the-snowflake-lady/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Jovial and forthright in her views, Inge Maria Gaup Eira must be one of the world’s foremost authorities on snowflakes. The eponymous half-Inuit heroine of Peter Hoeg’s bestselling thriller ‘Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow’ may have famously solved a murder through her ability to identify different types of snowflakes, for which she claimed there were [...]]]>
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Pasturelands http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/pasturelands/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/pasturelands/#comments Wed, 28 Mar 2007 14:03:34 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/pasturelands/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Latitude 69º 17 minutes 48 north Longtitude 21º 30 minutes 13 seconds east Temperature -455 A long day in brilliant sunshine moving through Ellen-Anne Siri’s family pasturelands, and we’ve now reached the eastern end of their reindeer summer pastures. We’ve climbed to 800 metres with the dogs, passing Finland’s highest mountain on the way, and have been [...]]]>
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Traditional versus scientific knowledge http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/traditional-versus-scientific-knowledge/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/traditional-versus-scientific-knowledge/#comments Tue, 27 Mar 2007 23:05:27 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/28/traditional-versus-scientific-knowledge/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Johan Mathis Turi and Svein Mathiesen are two very different human beings; the first a reindeer herder from the long tradition of Flyt Sámi, and now Secretary General of the World Reindeer Herders Association, and the second, a Norwegian Biologist and presently head of the EALÁT (a Reindeer Herders Vulnerability Network Study), explain themselves, and [...]]]>
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Meetings in Karasjok and Kautokeino Districts http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/27/meetings-in-karasjok-and-kautokeino-districts/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/27/meetings-in-karasjok-and-kautokeino-districts/#comments Tue, 27 Mar 2007 07:46:51 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/27/meetings-in-karasjok-and-kautokeino-districts/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
More than any other region in Norway, these two districts have been renowned as “traditional reindeer-herding” sites. Climate change: Most of the herders we have met situate the climate shift within the last 10 years, but understandably they tend to be more concerned with weather than climate change. I.e. the event rather than the [...]]]>
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High on the Vidda http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/high-on-the-vidda/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/high-on-the-vidda/#comments Mon, 26 Mar 2007 17:10:51 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/high-on-the-vidda/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Latitude 69º, 04 minutes, 32 seconds north Longtitude 22º, 09 minutes, 02 seconds east Elevation 507 metres. We’ve made our first destination high on the Vidda in the tundra with a stiff wind blowing. A strong north westerly wind blowing and temperatures minus 9. We’ve come from Kautokeino to Saitejauri high in the tundra. Seen herds [...]]]>
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The winter corral http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/the-winter-corral/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/the-winter-corral/#comments Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:03:37 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/26/the-winter-corral/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Yesterday, we were in the hills outside Kautokeino with Ellen-Anne’s extended family at a winter corral, where the herders, under Per Ailo Logje’s leadership were marking the last calves who’d been missed out at the December round-up.Š We came down from the high Tundra on the snow scooters, past the Norwegian army bunkers and listening [...]]]>
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Kautokeino http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/24/data/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/24/data/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2007 23:50:41 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/24/data/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
11.45pm Friday March 23rd Air temperature: minus 4 degrees Snow temperature: minus 4.5 degrees Lat: 68 degrees,56,51 N Long: 23 degrees,05,21 E After our arrival in Kautokeino last night, perhaps the most important centre for reindeer herders, where the Sámi Institute for Indigenous Peoples, the Reindeer Husbandry Centre, and the Sámi University College are situated. We [...]]]>
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An old man’s memories… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/23/an-old-mans-memories/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/23/an-old-mans-memories/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:50:59 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/23/an-old-mans-memories/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Lahpoluoppal, on the the last leg to Kautokeino: Ule Henrik Gaino looks after the state fjæl huts where we stayed the night. He’’s a mere 67 years old but he’s lived and seen a lot. A wiry tentative body, strong ageless face, with the smile of a wise child about him, and gentle hands which [...]]]>
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Notes from the sledge http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/notes-from-the-sledge/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/notes-from-the-sledge/#comments Wed, 21 Mar 2007 17:58:21 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/notes-from-the-sledge/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
This report comes to you from the sledge as we mush towards Kautokeino aiming for our next overnight stop at Láhpoluoppal. This is our second day now in the wild as we mush from Karasjok towards Kautokeino. We’ve had two good days of travel - putting up the tents, suffering over a fire of [...]]]>
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The Eira family http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/eira-reindeer-herding-family-from-karasjok/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/eira-reindeer-herding-family-from-karasjok/#comments Wed, 21 Mar 2007 15:29:53 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/21/eira-reindeer-herding-family-from-karasjok/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
The Eira reindeer herding family from Karasjok who we had the pleasure of meeting. ]]>
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Stats for March 20th http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/stats-for-march-20th/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/stats-for-march-20th/#comments Tue, 20 Mar 2007 07:07:09 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/stats-for-march-20th/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Lat: 69,24,08 N Long: 24,39,03 E. Time of reading 7am, March 20. Snow temperature: minus 4 degrees. Air temperature: minus 5 degrees. Wind: North North East ]]>
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More Northern Lights http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/pic-for-diary/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/pic-for-diary/#comments Mon, 19 Mar 2007 23:06:56 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/20/pic-for-diary/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
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Passing thoughts on Sámi women http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/passing-thoughts-on-sami-women/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/passing-thoughts-on-sami-women/#comments Mon, 19 Mar 2007 22:19:51 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/passing-thoughts-on-sami-women/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
It seems to me (Euan) that it is the Sámi women in Finnmark who tend to be more cultivated and are often better educated than their spouses - at least those in the middle-aged range. This would seem to be the case among the Sámi families we have encountered along our route, into whose homes [...]]]>
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The white reindeer http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/the-white-reindeer/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/the-white-reindeer/#comments Sun, 18 Mar 2007 23:41:19 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/19/the-white-reindeer/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
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Ragnar’s calf http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/18/ragnars-calf/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/18/ragnars-calf/#comments Sun, 18 Mar 2007 21:34:40 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/18/ragnars-calf/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
First snow-fall reading for NASA project… Lat: 69.24,08 N. Long: 24,39,03 E. Time of reading: March 18th, 2007, 08.50am. Snow temperature minus 3.5. Air temperature minus 2 degrees. Snowfall with South East wind. We continue with NASA Thermacron project taking snow temperature readings every 60 minutes. These give graphics and historigrams for snow temperature variations every 60 minutes. [...]]]>
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Recapitulation on the Tana River http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/recapitulation-on-the-tana-river/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/recapitulation-on-the-tana-river/#comments Sat, 17 Mar 2007 21:18:48 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/recapitulation-on-the-tana-river/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
To recapitulate a bit. If you can find a map of the top of Scandinavia, from the Russian- Norwegian coastline border (East), to Narvik and the Lofoten (West), it will be easier. After an exploratory day in Pasvik valley running along the Russian border, we started [...]]]>
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It’s a dog’s life… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/the-dogs-2/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/the-dogs-2/#comments Sat, 17 Mar 2007 08:13:47 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/17/the-dogs-2/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Mathis, who doesn’t wear the trousers. Spiro. ]]>
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Simple things http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/16/simple-things/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/16/simple-things/#comments Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:20:36 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/16/simple-things/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
I spent the day with the back-up team to see their work, spirit, sense of fun, and check that all was well with them. I’m glad I did, and we exchanged many jokes in poor taste with much pleasure. Roy is a photographer, wilderness man, who tells me he’s only frightened in cities, of [...]]]>
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Feeding the herds http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds-2/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds-2/#comments Wed, 14 Mar 2007 19:37:21 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds-2/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
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With the herds… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds/#comments Wed, 14 Mar 2007 19:17:11 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/14/with-the-herds/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
The Vidda: We’ have now spent two days out on the Vidda, in the field with the reindeer herders. Still on the winter pastures, the reindeer are now preparing to move in the beginning of April to the spring calving grounds where they calves will be born in the end of May. For the moment, [...]]]>
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Natural Wonders… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/natural-wonders/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/natural-wonders/#comments Tue, 13 Mar 2007 21:00:47 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/natural-wonders/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
For the past 24 hours we have been privileged to see some of the most exciting and impressive natural visual wonders our planet can offer. Last night we were granted the rare blessing of a glimpse of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) for the second night in a row. Hard to convey the sheer mystery [...]]]>
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Herding in a time of change http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/herding-in-a-time-of-change/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/herding-in-a-time-of-change/#comments Tue, 13 Mar 2007 19:35:20 +0000 admin http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/herding-in-a-time-of-change/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
While in Langfjorden, we met Inge, a member of a reindeer-herding family who, together with four other families, owns a herd of 2,500 reindeer (winter size). The herd is currently in its winter range, the Örve Pasvik valley close to the Finish border, some 80km southwest from Langfjorden. This border has been fenced against reindeer [...]]]>
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Rangna Isaaks http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/rangnar-isaaks/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/rangnar-isaaks/#comments Tue, 13 Mar 2007 19:32:02 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/rangnar-isaaks/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
We met Rangna Isaaks, a Sea Sámi lady of 83. She’s got 4 children, 13 grandchildren, and so far only 17 greatgrandchildren, and she wants to die with her boots on. “Know what I mean?” she asked us. “No Old Age Pensioner’s home, no Alzheimers, no armchair in front of the TV wearing nappies and [...]]]>
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Kurt Magge, herder http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/kurt-magge-herder/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/kurt-magge-herder/#comments Tue, 13 Mar 2007 19:32:02 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/13/kurt-magge-herder/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Herding: We met Kurt Magge, a square laughing man with Turkic features, whose openness, honesty, and enthusiasm to communicate his thoughts on reindeer husbandry in a changing world, was of enormous value to the team. The next morning he was generous enough to invite us out to his herds where we spent an extraordinary day. [...]]]>
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Meeting the local herders http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/11/sunday-march-1th/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/11/sunday-march-1th/#comments Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:44:30 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/11/sunday-march-1th/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Kirkenes to Neiden… 45 kilometers over mountainous terrain, hilly, tough going, and exhausting. A magical landscape with the sun surreptitiously slipping over the hills –- pale, ghostly, and heart-breakingly beautiful as we swept alone into and out of the deep silences. A couple of great herds of reindeer in the distance, and meetings arranged with [...]]]>
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Coast to coast… http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/coast-to-coast/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/coast-to-coast/#comments Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:16:58 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/coast-to-coast/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
With the dogs to the Barents Sea (Grenze Jakobselv), our most Northerly and Easterly point. This is where we really start the expedition, at least in our minds, aiming to reach the Atlantic in a month to five weeks time. Its snowing which means the weather is quite mild (usually between plus and minus three [...]]]>
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Barents Sea http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/barents-sea/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/barents-sea/#comments Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:16:56 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/10/barents-sea/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Tom Frode and Adam taking a bath. The first leg of our journey is now underway. Photos by Jan Ivar Larsen ]]>
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Practice day in the field http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/08/practice-day-in-the-field/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/08/practice-day-in-the-field/#comments Thu, 08 Mar 2007 20:41:17 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/08/practice-day-in-the-field/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
We start late after Tom hand-picks each dog-team for us: Dessislav Sabev, Euan Cameron, and Adam Munthe (myself). We grab every dog by the collar, starting with the lead dogs, slip on their harness, and run each dog to his or her place before the sled. The dogs run on their back legs so keen [...]]]>
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The “Sounding Lights” http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/more-on-aurora-b/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/more-on-aurora-b/#comments Wed, 07 Mar 2007 14:05:58 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/more-on-aurora-b/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
In the Sámi tradition the Northern Lights (The Sounding Lights in Sámi) were believed to have a supernatural power which could be called upon to resolve conflicts. Maybe we should try it over the world right now? ]]>
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The northen lights http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/the-northen-lights/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/the-northen-lights/#comments Wed, 07 Mar 2007 13:35:15 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/the-northen-lights/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
The amazing Aurora Borealis effect just outside Kirkenes on our first night preparing the expedition. Photo by Roy Sætre ]]>
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Meeting the huskies with Tom Frode, our chief guide http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/pictures/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/pictures/#comments Wed, 07 Mar 2007 12:16:12 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/pictures/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
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Arrival in Solia http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/ist-message/ http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/ist-message/#comments Wed, 07 Mar 2007 09:40:29 +0000 Tom Frode http://www.finnmark2007.com/diary/2007/03/07/ist-message/ Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/2/d178358563/htdocs/finnmark/diary/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 76
Arrived last night alone to Solia - just outside Kirkenes - where Tom Frode, our chief guide, has booked cabins for the humans, space for the dogs. Temp 8 degrees below. Owners kind, hard-working couple who give me a great supper, reindeer steak, Lingon berries,spuds and carrots. One of the last normal meals. Good to [...]]]>
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